วันอังคาร, ธันวาคม 2, 2008

Guava Fruit Facts

Guava Fruit Facts

One of the most gregarious of fruit trees, the guava, Psidium guajava L., of the myrtle family (Myrtaceae), is almost universally known by its common English name or its equivalent in other languages. In Spanish, the tree is guayabo, or guayavo, the fruit guayaba or guyava. The French call it goyave or goyavier; the Dutch, guyaba, goeajaaba; the Surinamese, guave or goejaba; and the Portuguese, goiaba or goaibeira. Hawaiians call it guava or kuawa. In Guam it is abas. In Malaya, it is generally known either as guava or jambu batu, but has also numerous dialectal names as it does in India, tropical Africa and the Philippines where the corruption, bayabas, is often applied. Various tribal names–pichi, posh, enandi, etc.–are employed among the Indians of Mexico and Central and South America.

Plate L: GUAVA, Psidium guajava Description
A small tree to 33 ft (10 in) high, with spreading branches, the guava is easy to recognize because of its smooth, thin, copper-colored bark that flakes off, showing the greenish layer beneath; and also because of the attractive, "bony" aspect of its trunk which may in time attain a diameter of 10 in (25 cm). Young twigs are quadrangular and downy. The leaves, aromatic when crushed, are evergreen, opposite, short-petioled, oval or oblong-elliptic, somewhat irregular in outline; 2 3/4 to 6 in (7-15 cm) long, I 'A to 2 in (3-5 cm) wide, leathery, with conspicuous parallel veins, and more or less downy on the underside. Faintly fragrant, the white flowers, borne singly or in small clusters in the leaf axils, are 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, with 4 or 5 white petals which are quickly shed, and a prominent tuft of perhaps 250 white stamens tipped with pale-yellow anthers.
The fruit, exuding a strong, sweet, musky odor when ripe, may be round, ovoid, or pear-shaped, 2 to 4 in (5-10 cm) long, with 4 or 5 protruding floral remnants (sepals) at the apex; and thin, light-yellow skin, frequently blushed with pink. Next to the skin is a layer of somewhat granular flesh, 1/8 to 1/2 in (3-12.5 mm) thick, white, yellowish, light- or dark-pink, or near-red, juicy, acid, subacid, or sweet and flavorful. The central pulp, concolorous or slightly darker in tone, is juicy and normally filled with very hard, yellowish seeds, 1/8 in (3 min) long, though some rare types have soft, chewable seeds. Actual seed counts have ranged from 112 to 535 but some guavas are seedless or nearly so.

When immature and until a very short time before ripening, the fruit is green, hard, gummy within and very astringent.

The guava has been cultivated and distributed by man, by birds, and sundry 4-footed animals for so long that its place of origin is uncertain, but it is believed to be an area extending from southern Mexico into or through Central America. It is common throughout all warm areas of tropical America and in the West Indies (since 1526), the Bahamas, Bermuda and southern Florida where it was reportedly introduced in 1847 and was common over more than half the State by 1886. Early Spanish and Portuguese colonizers were quick to carry it from the New World to the East Indies and Guam. It was soon adopted as a crop in Asia and in warm parts of Africa. Egyptians have grown it for a long time and it may have traveled from Egypt to Palestine. It is occasionally seen in Algeria and on the Mediterranean coast of France. In India, guava cultivation has been estimated at 125,327 acres (50,720 ha) yielding 27,319 tons annually.

Apparently it did not arrive in Hawaii until the early 1800's. Now it occurs throughout the Pacific islands. Generally, it is a home fruit tree or planted in small groves, except in India where it is a major commercial resource. A guava research and improvement program was launched by the government of Colombia in 1961. In 1968, it was estimated that there were about 10 million wild trees (around Santander, Boyacá, Antioquia, Palmira, Buga, Cali and Cartago) bearing, 88 lbs (40 kg) each per year and that only 10% of the fruit was being utilized in processing. Bogotà absorbs 40% of the production and preserved products are exported to markets in Venezuela and Panama.

Brazil's modern guava industry is based on seeds of an Australian selection grown in the botanical garden of the Sao Paulo Railway Company at Tatu. Plantations were developed by Japanese farmers at Itaquera and this has become the leading guava-producing area in Brazil. The guava is one of the leading fruits of Mexico where the annual crop from 36,447 acres (14,750 ha) of seedling trees totals 192,850 tons (175,500 MT). Only in recent years has there been a research program designed to evaluate and select superior types for vegetative propagation and large-scale cultivation.

In Florida, the first commercial guava planting was established around 1912 in Palma Sola. Others appeared at Punta Gorda and Opalocka. A 40-acre (16 ha) guava grove was planted by Miami Fruit Industries at Indian-town in 1946. There have been more than two dozen guava jelly manufacturers throughout the state. A Sarasota concern was processing 250 bushels of guavas per day and a Pinellas County processor was operating a 150-bushel capacity plant in 1946. There has always been a steady market for guava products in Florida and the demand has increased in recent years with the influx of Caribbean and Latin American people.

The guava succumbs to frost in California except in a few favorable locations. Even if summers are too cool–a mean of 60º F (15.56º C)–in the coastal southern part of the state, the tree will die back and it cannot stand the intense daytime heat of interior valleys.

In many parts of the world, the guava runs wild and forms extensive thickets–called "guayabales" in Spanish–and it overruns pastures, fields and roadsides so vigorously in Hawaii, Malaysia, New Caledonia, Fiji, the U.S. Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, Cuba and southern Florida that it is classed as a noxious weed subject to eradication. Nevertheless, wild guavas have constituted the bulk of the commercial supply. In 1972, Hawaii processed, for domestic use and export, more than 2,500 tons (2,274 MT) of guavas, over 90% from wild trees. During the period of high demand in World War II, the wild guava crop in Cuba was said to be 10,000 tons (9,000 MT), and over 6,500 tons (6,000 MT) of guava products were exported.


Cultivars

Formerly, round and pear-shaped guavas were considered separate species–P. pomiferum L. and P. pyriferum L.–but they are now recognized as mere variations. Small, sour guavas predominate in the wild and are valued for processing.

'Redland', the first named cultivar in Florida, was developed at the University of Florida Agricultural Research and Education Center, Homestead, and described in 1941. Very large, with little odor, white-fleshed and with relatively few seeds, it was at first considered promising but because of its excessively mild flavor, low ascorbic acid content, and susceptibility to algal spotting, it was abandoned in favor of better selections.

'Supreme' came next, of faint odor, thick, white flesh, relatively few, small seeds, high ascorbic acid content and ability to produce heavy crops over a period of 8 months from late fall to early spring.

'Red Indian', of strong odor, medium to large size, round but slightly flattened at the base and apex, yellow skin often with pink blush; with medium thick, red flesh of sweet flavor; numerous but small seeds; agreeable for eating fresh; fairly productive in fall and early winter.

'Ruby', with pungent odor, medium to large size; ovate; with thick, red flesh, sweet flavor, relatively few seeds. An excellent guava for eating fresh and for canning; fairly productive, mainly in fall and early winter.

'Blitch' (a seedling which originated in West Palm Beach and was planted at Homestead)–of strong odor, medium size, oval, with light-pink flesh, numerous, small seeds; tart, pleasant flavor; good for jelly.

'Patillo' (a seedling selection at DeLand propagated by a root sucker and from that by air-layer and planted at Homestead)–of very mild odor, medium size, ovate to obovate, with pink flesh, moderate number of small seeds; subacid, agreeable flavor; good for general cooking. (As grown in Hawaii it is highly acid and best used for processing).

'Miami Red' and 'Miami White', large, nearly odorless and thick-fleshed, were released by the University of Miami's Experimental Farm in 1954.

In early 1952, Dr. J.J. Ochse imported into Florida air-layers of a seedless guava from Java. All died. In September 1953, the writer received air-layers from Saharanpur, India. One survived and was turned over to the Agricultural Research and Education Center, Homestead. Four more were ordered from Coimbatore but arrived dead. Willim Whitman brought in a grafted plant from Java in 1954 which grew well, fruited and was the source of propagating material. In 1955, Whitman obtained a plant of a seedless guava from Cuba and it bore its first fruit in 1957. Seedless guavas are the result of low fertility of pollen grains and self-incompatibility. The fruits tend to be malformed and the trees are scant bearers. Applications of gibberellic acid increase fruit size, weight and ascorbic acid content but induce prominent ridges on the surface.

Among early California cultivars were:

'Webber' (formerly 'Riverside'), of medium-large size, pale-yellowish flesh, good flavor and 9.5% sugar.

'Rolfs', of medium size with pink flesh; of good quality and containing 9% sugar.

'Hart', fairly large, with pale-yellow flesh, and 8% sugar content.

Currently, some rare fruit fanciers grow the Florida-developed 'Red Indian' and 'White Indian'; also 'Detwiler' and 'Turnbull'.

In 1975, a guava trial project was undertaken at the Maroochy Horticultural Research Station in southeastern Queensland, beginning with 5 strains from Hawaii. By 1981, 4 selections (GA9-39R1T2', 'GA11-56T7', GA11-56R5T2' and 'GA11-564T1') seemed to hold promise for processing and 2 selections ('GA11-56T3' and 'GA11-56R1T1') for marketing fresh. They were all vegetatively propagated and tested as to performance. The green-skinned, acid, 'GA11-56' and another Hawaiian selection, '1050', yellow-skinned and mild in flavor and odor, are being grown commercially for processing in New South Wales.

In India much attention is given the characteristics of local and introduced guava cultivars and their suitability for various purposes. Among common white-fleshed cultivars are:

'Apple Colour'–of medium size, slightly oblate; deep-pink skin, creamy-white flesh, moderate amount of seeds, very sweet flavor (0.34-2.12% acid, 9 to 11.36% sugar); heavy bearer; good keeping quality; good for canning.

'Behat Coconut'–large, with thick white flesh, few seeds; poor for canning.

'Chittidar'–medium to large, round-ovate, white-fleshed, mild acid-sweet flavor; bears moderately well; keeps well; good for canning.

'Habshi'–of medium size with thick, white flesh, few seeds; halves good for canning.

'Lucknow 42'–of medium size, roundish, with creamy-white, soft flesh; sweet, pleasant flavor; very few seeds; good quality; bears heavily; keeps fairly well; not suitable for canning.

'Lucknow 49'–medium-large with cream-white, thick flesh, few seeds; acid-sweet; good quality; heavy bearer; high in pectin and good for jelly; halves good for canning.

'Safeda'–of medium size, with very thin skin, thick, white flesh, few seeds. Outstanding quality for canning. A famous guava, widely planted, but susceptible to wilt and branches are brittle and break readily.

'Smooth Green'–of medium size, with thick white flesh, few, small, hard seeds. Halves are firm, good for canning.

'Allahabad'–large, white-fleshed, with few, medium-sized, fairly hard seeds.

'Karela'–medium-large, pear-shaped, furrowed, rough-skinned, with soft, granular, white flesh; sweet, rich, pleasant flavor. Poor bearer. Not popular.

'Nagpur Seedless'–small to medium, often irregular in shape; white-fleshed.

'Seedless' (from Allahabad)–medium to large, pear-shaped to ovoid; with thick white flesh, firm to soft, sweet. Light bearer; poor keeper.

A seedless type at Poona, India, was found to be a triploid with 33 chromosomes in place of the usual 22.

Other white-fleshed guavas with poor canning qualities are: 'Dharwar', 'Mirzapuri', 'Nasik', 'Sindh', and 'White Supreme X Ruby'.

Among red-fleshed cultivars in India there are:

'Anakapalle'–small, with thin, red flesh, many seeds; not suitable for canning.

'Florida Seedling'–small, with thin, red, acid flesh; many seeds; not suitable for canning.

Hapi'–medium to large, with red flesh.

'Hybrid Red Supreme'–large, with thin, red, acid flesh; moderate amount of seeds; not suitable for canning.

'Kothrud'–of medium size with medium thick, red flesh; moderate amount of seeds; not suitable for canning.

'Red-fleshed'–of medium size with many (about 567) fairly soft seeds; high in pectin and good for jelly; not suitable for canning.

Among other Indian cultivars are: 'Banaras', 'Dholka', 'Hasijka', 'Kaffree', and 'Wickramasekara'. The latter is a small fruit and poor bearer.

Indian breeders have crossed the guava with its dwarf, small-fruited relative, P. guineense Sw., with a view to reducing tree size and enhancing hardiness and yield.

In Egypt, a cultivar named 'Bassateen El Sabahia' has long been the standard commercial guava.

Efforts have been made to improve quality and yield and to this end selections were made from 300 seedlings. The most promising selection was tested and introduced into cultivation in 1975 under the name 'Bassateen Edfina'. It is pear-shaped, of medium size, sometimes pink-blushed, with thick, white flesh, few seeds, good flavor and higher ascorbic acid content than the parent. It bears well over a long season.

In Puerto Rico, over 100 promising selections were under observation in 1963.

Numerous cultivated clones identified only by number have been evaluated for processing characters. Others have been tested and rated for resistance to Glomerella disease. Among the few named cultivars are 'Corozal Mixta', 'Corriente', and 'Seedling 57-6-79'.

In Trinidad, a large, white-fleshed type is known as 'Cayenne'.

In 1967, French horticulturists made a detailed evaluation of 11 guava cultivars grown at the Neufchateau Station in Guadeloupe:

'Elisabeth'–large, round, pink-fleshed, very acid; good for processing.

'Red' X 'Supreme' X 'Ruby'–large, ovoid, with deep-pink flesh; agreeable for eating fresh.

'Large White'–large, round, white-fleshed; low sugar content, astringent; can be useful as filler in preserves.

'Acid Speer'–large, round, with pale-yellow flesh; acid; recommended only as source of pectin.

'Red' X 'Supreme' X 'Ruby' X 'White'–large to very large, pear-shaped, with creamy-white flesh; good for eating fresh and for juice and nectar.

'Pink Indian'–of medium size, red-fleshed; agreeably acid; good for eating fresh and for processing.

'Red Hybrid'–medium, sub-ovoid, red-fleshed; medium quality.

'Supreme' X 'Ruby'–medium, sub-ovoid, white-fleshed; unremarkable except for high productivity.

'Stone'–small, ovoid, with deep-pink flesh; attractive and of agreeable flavor for eating fresh.

'Supreme'–small, ovoid, with pale-yellow, pink-tinged flesh; sweet; good for sherbet and paste; very productive.

'Patricia'–very small, ovoid, salmon-fleshed; attractive; good to eat fresh but quickly loses its distinct strawberry flavor; good for sirup; very productive.

Between 1948 and 1969, 21 guava cultivars from 7 countries were introduced into Hawaii. Some have been test planted and evaluated at the Waimanalo Experimental Farm. Four sweet, white-fleshed, thick-walled cultivars were rated as commercially desirable: 'Indonesian White', 'Indonesian Seedless', 'Lucknow 49', and 'No. 6363' (a 'Ruby' X 'Supreme' hybrid from Florida).

Lower ratings were given four others of this group: 'Apple' (too musky and seedy); 'Allahabad Safeda' (too bumpy of surface); 'Burma' (too seedy) and 'Hong Kong White' (too seedy). Of the sweet, pink-fleshed, thick-walled cultivars examined, 'Hong Kong Pink' was preferred. Second choice was 'No. 6362' (a seedling of a 'Ruby' X' Supreme' cross in Florida). 'No. 7199', a seedling of a 'Stone Acid' X 'Ruby' cross in Florida, was considered too musky. Among acid, non-musky, thick-walled guavas, 'Beaumont', a Hawaiian selection, is large and pink-fleshed. 'Pink Acid' (#7198), from a Florida cross of 'Speer' and 'Stone Acid', has dark-pink flesh and few seeds.

These cultivars are employed in breeding programs in Hawaii. In 1978, a new cultivar, 'Ka Hua Kula', selected from 1,200 seedlings of 'Beaumont', was released and recommended for commercial guava puree. The fruit is large, with thick, deep-pink flesh, and fewer seeds than 'Beaumont', and is less acid. It is also a heavier bearer.

In Colombia, the cultivars 'Puerto Rico', 'Rojo Africano', and 'Agrio', all yield over 2,200 fruits annually. Other high-yielding cultivars being evaluated are 'White', 'Red', 'D-13', 'D-14', and 'Trujillo 2'.

Collecting guava cultivars is a hobby of Mr. Arthur Stockdale, Finca Catalina, Zitacuaro, Mexico.

He is said to have some very superior selections in his grove.

Pollination

The chief pollinator of guavas is the honeybee (Apis mellifera). The amount of cross-pollination ranges from 25.7 to 41.3%.


Climate

The guava thrives in both humid and dry climates. In India, it flourishes up to an altitude of 3,280 ft (1,000 m); in Jamaica, up to 3,906 ft (1,200 m); in Costa Rica, to 4,590 ft (1,400 m); in Ecuador, to 7,540 ft (2,300 m). It can survive only a few degrees of frost. Young trees have been damaged or killed in cold spells at Allahabad, India, in California and in Florida. Older trees, killed to the ground, have sent up new shoots which fruited 2 years later. The guava requires an annual rainfall between 40 and 80 in (1,000-2,000 mm); is said to bear more heavily in areas with a distinct winter season than in the deep Tropics.


Soil

The guava seems indiscriminate as to soil, doing equally well on heavy clay, marl, light sand, gravel bars near streams, or on limestone; and tolerating a pH range from 4.5 to 9.4. It is somewhat salt-resistant. Good drainage is recommended but guavas are seen growing spontaneously on land with a high water table–too wet for most other fruit trees.


Propagation

Guava seeds remain viable for many months. They often germinate in 2 to 3 weeks but may take as long as 8 weeks. Pretreatment with sulfuric acid, or boiling for 5 minutes, or soaking for 2 weeks, will hasten germination. Seedlings are transplanted when 2 to 30 in (5-75 cm) high and set out in the field when 1 or 2 years old. Inasmuch as guava trees cannot be depended upon to come true from seed, vegetative propagation is widely practiced.

In Hawaii, India and elsewhere, the tree has been grown from root cuttings. Pieces of any roots except the smallest and the very large, cut into 5 to 10 in (12.5-20 cm) lengths, are placed flat in a prepared bed and covered with 2 to 4 in (5-10 cm) of soil which must be kept moist. Or one can merely cut through roots in the ground 2 to 3 ft (0.6-0.9 m) away from the tree trunk; the cut ends will sprout and can be dug up and transplanted.

By another method, air-layers of selected clones are allowed to grow 3 to 5 years and are then sawn off close to the ground. Then a ring of bark is removed from each new shoot; root-inducing chemical is applied. Ten days later, the shoots are banked with soil to a height 4 to 5 in (10-12.5 cm) above the ring. After 2 months, the shoots are separated and planted out.

Pruned branches may serve as propagating material. Cuttings of half-ripened wood, 1/4 to 1/2 in (6-12.5 mm) thick will root with bottom heat or rooting-hormone treatment. Using both, 87% success has been achieved. Treated softwood cuttings will also root well in intermittent mist. In Trinidad, softwood, treated cuttings have been rooted in 18 days in coconut fiber dust or sand in shaded bins sprayed 2 or 3 times daily to keep humidity above 90%. Over 100,000 plants were produced by this method over a 2-year period. Under tropical conditions (high heat and high humidity), mature wood 3/4 to 1 in (2-2.5 cm) thick and 1 1/2 to 2 ft (45-60 cm) long, stuck into 1-ft (30-cm) high black plastic bags filled with soil, readily roots without chemical treatment.

In India, air-layering and inarching have been practiced for many years. However, trees grown from cuttings or air-layers have no taproot and are apt to be blown down in the first 2 or 3 years. For this reason, budding and grafting are preferred.

Approach grafting yields 85 to 95% success. Trials have been made of the shield, patch and Forkert methods of budding. The latter always gives the best results (88 to 100%). Vigorous seedlings 1/2 to 1 in (1.25-2.5 cm) thick are used as rootstocks. The bark should slip easily to facilitate insertion of the bud, which is then tightly bound in place with a plastic strip and the rootstock is beheaded, leaving only 6 to 8 leaves above the bud. About a month later, an incision is made halfway through 2 or 3 in (5-7.5 cm) above the bud and the plant is bent over to force the bud to grow. When the bud has put up several inches of growth, the top of the rootstock is cut off immediately above the bud. Sprouting of the bud is expedited in the rainy season.

At the Horticultural Experiment and Training Center, Basti, India, a system of patch budding has been demonstrated as commercially feasible. A swollen but unsprouted, dormant bud is taken as a 3/4 x 3/8 in (2 x l cm) patch from a leaf axil of previous season's growth and taped onto a space of the same size cut 6 to 8 in (15-20 cm) above the ground on a 1-year-old, pencil-thick seedling during the period April-June. After the bud has "taken", 1/3 is cut from the top of the seedling; 2-3 weeks later, the rest of the top is cut off leaving only 3/4 to 1 1/4 in (2-3.2 cm) of stem above the bud. This method gives 80 to 90% success. If done in July, only 70%. In Hawaii, old seedling orchards have been topworked to superior selections by patch budding on stump shoots.


Culture

Guava trees are frequently planted too close. Optimum distance between the trees should be at least 33 ft (10 m). Planting 16 1/2 ft (5 m) apart is possible if the trees are "hedged". The yield per tree will be less but the total yield per land area will be higher than at the wider spacing. Some recommend setting the trees 8 ft (2.4 m) apart in rows 24 ft (7.3 m) apart and removing every other tree as soon as there is overcrowding. Where mass production is not desired and space is limited, guava trees can be grown as cordons on a wire fence. Rows should always run north and south so that each tree receives the maximum sunlight. Exudates from the roots of guava trees tend to inhibit the growth of weeds over the root system.

Light pruning is always recommended to develop a strong framework, and suckers should also be eliminated around the base. Experimental heading-back has increased yield in some cultivars in Puerto Rico. In Palestine, the trees are cut back to 6 1/2 ft (2 m) every other spring to facilitate harvesting without ladders. Fruits are borne by new shoots from mature wood. If trees bear too heavily, the branches may break. Therefore, thinning is recommended and results in larger fruits.

Guava trees grow rapidly and fruit in 2 to 4 years from seed. They live 30 to 40 years but productivity declines after the 15th year. Orchards may be rejuvenated by drastic pruning.

The tree is drought-tolerant but in dry regions lack of irrigation during the period of fruit development will cause the fruits to be deficient in size. In areas receiving only 15 to 20 in (38-50 cm) rainfall annually, the guava will benefit from an additional 2,460 cm (2 acre feet) applied by means of 8 to 10 irrigations, one every 15-20 days in summer and one each month in winter.
Guava trees respond to a complete fertilizer mix applied once a month during the first year and every other month the second year (except from mid-November to mid-January) at the rate of 8 oz (227 g) per tree initially with a gradual increase to 24 oz (680 g) by the end of the second year. Nutritional sprays providing copper and zinc are recommended thrice annually for the first 2 years and once a year thereafter. In India, flavor and quality of guavas has been somewhat improved by spraying the foliage with an aqueous solution of potassium sulfate weekly for 7 weeks after fruit set.

Control of Wild Trees

Large trees that have overrun pastures are killed in Fiji with 2,4-D dicamba or 2,4,5-T in diesel fuel or old engine oil. Extensive wild stands of young trees are best burned. Cutting results in regrowth with multiple stems.


Cropping and Yield

The fruit matures 90 to 150 days after flowering. Generally, there are 2 crops per year in southern Puerto Rico; the heaviest, with small fruits, in late summer and early fall; another, with larger fruits, in late winter and early spring. In northern India, the main crop ripens in mid-winter and the fruits are of the best quality. A second crop is home in the rainy season but the fruits are less abundant and watery. Growers usually withhold irrigation after December or January or root-prune the trees in order to avoid a second crop. The trees will shed many leaves and any fruits set will drop. An average winter crop in northern India is about 450 fruits per tree. Trees may bear only 100-300 fruits in the rainy season but the price is higher because of relative scarcity despite the lower quality. Of course, yields vary with the cultivar and cultural treatment. Experiments have shown that spraying young guava trees with 25% urea plus a wetting agent will bring them into production early and shorten the harvest period from the usual 15 weeks to 4 weeks.


Handling and Keeping Quality

Ripe guavas bruise easily and are highly perishable. Fruits for processing may be harvested by mechanical tree-shakers and plastic nets. For fresh marketing and shipping, the fruits must be clipped when full grown but underripe, and handled with great care. After grading for size, the fruits should be wrapped individually in tissue and packed in 1 to 4 padded layers with extra padding on top before the cover is put on. They have been successully shipped from Miami to wholesalers in major northern cities in refrigerated trucks at temperatures of 45º to 55º F (7.22º-12.78º C). It is commonly said that guavas must be tree-ripened to attain prime quality, but the cost of protecting the crop from birds makes early picking necessary. It has been demonstrated that fruits picked when yellow-green and artificially ripened for 6 days in straw at room temperature developed superior color and sugar content.

Guavas kept at room temperature in India are normally overripe and mealy by the 6th day, but if wrapped in pliofilm will keep in good condition for 9 days. In cold storage, pliofilm-wrapped fruits remain unchanged for more than 12 days. Wrapping checks weight loss and preserves glossiness. Unwrapped 'Safeda' guavas, just turned yellow, have kept well for 4 weeks in cold storage at 47º to 50º F (8.33º-10º C) and relative humidity of 85-95%, and were in good condition for 3 days thereafter at room temperature of 76º to 87º F (24º-44º C).

Fruits coated with a 3% wax emulsion will keep well for 8 days at 72º to 86º F (22.2º-30º C) and 40 to 60% relative humidity, and for 21 days at 47º to 50º F (8.3º-10º C) and relative humidity of 85-90%. Storage life of mature green guavas is prolonged at 68º F (20º C), relative humidity of 85%, less than 10% carbon dioxide, and complete removal of ethylene.

Researchers at Kurukshetra University, India, have shown that treatment of harvested guavas with 100 ppm morphactin (chlorflurenol methyl ester 74050) increases the storage life of guavas by controlling fungal decay, and reducing loss of color, weight, sugars, ascorbic acid and non-volatile organic acids. Combined fungicidal and double-wax coating has increased marketability by 30 days.

Australian workers report prolonged life and reduced rotting in storage after a hot water dip, but better results were achieved by dipping in an aqueous benomyl suspension at 122º F (50º C).

Higher temperatures cause some skin injury, as does a guazatine dip which is also a less effective fungicide.

Fruits sprayed on the tree with gibberellic acid 20-35 days before normal ripening, were retarded nearly a week as compared with the untreated fruits. Also, mature guavas soaked in gibberellic acid off the tree showed a prolonged storage life.

Trials at Haryana Agricultural University, Hissar, India, showed that weekly spraying with 1.0% potassium sulfate–1.6 gals (6 liters) per tree–beginning 7 days after fruit set and ending just before harvesting at the pale-green stage, delays yellowing, retains firmness and flavor beyond normal storage life.

Food technologists in India found that bottled guava juice (strained from sliced guavas boiled 35 minutes), preserved with 700 ppm SO2, lost much ascorbic acid but little pectin when stored for 3 months without refrigeration, and it made perfectly set jelly.

Pests and Diseases

Guava trees are seriously damaged by the citrus flat mite, Brevipa1pus californicus in Egypt. In India, the tree is attacked by 80 insect species, including 3 bark-eating caterpillars (Indarbella spp.) and the guava scale, but this and other scale insects are generally kept under control by their natural enemies. The green shield scale, Pulvinaria psidii, requires chemical measures in Florida, as does the guava white fly, Trialeurodes floridensis, and a weevil, Anthonomus irroratus, which bores holes in the newly forming fruits.

The red-banded thrips feed on leaves and the fruit surface. In India, cockchafer beetles feed on the leaves at the end of the rainy season and their grubs, hatched in the soil, attack the roots.

The larvae of the guava shoot borer penetrates the tender twigs, killing the shoots. Sometimes aphids are prevalent, sucking the sap from the underside of the leaves of new shoots and excreting honeydew on which sooty mold develops.

The guava fruit worm, Argyresthia eugeniella, invisibly infiltrates hard green fruits, and the citron plant bug, Theognis gonagia, the yellow beetle, Costalimaita ferruginea, and the fruit-sucking bug, Helopeltis antonii, feed on ripe fruits. A false spider mite, Brevipalpus phoenicis, causes surface russeting beginning when the fruits are half-grown. Fruit russeting and defoliation result also from infestations of red-banded thrips, Selenothrips rubrocinctus. The coconut mealybug, Pseudococcus nipae, has been a serious problem in Puerto Rico but has been effectively combatted by the introduction of its parasitic enemy, Pseudaphycus utilis.

Soil-inhabiting white grubs require plowing-in of an approved and effective pesticide during field preparation in Puerto Rico. There are other minor pests, but the great problems wherever the guava is grown are fruit flies.

The guava is a prime host of the Mediterranean, Oriental, Mexican, and Caribbean fruit flies, and the melon fly–Ceratitis capitata, Dacus dorsalis, Anastrepha ludens, A. suspensa, and Dacus cucurbitae. Ripe fruits will be found infested with the larvae and totally unusable except as feed for cattle and swine. To avoid fruit fly damage, fruits must be picked before full maturity and this requires harvesting at least 3 times a week. In Brazil, choice, undamaged guavas are produced by covering the fruits with paper sacks when young (the size of an olive). Infested fruits should be burned or otherwise destroyed. In recent years, the Cooperative Extension Service in Dade County, Florida, has distributed wasps that attack the larvae and pupae of the Caribbean fruit fly and have somewhat reduced the menace.

In Puerto Rico, up to 50% of the guava crop (mainly from wild trees) may be ruined by the uncontrollable fungus, Glomerella cingulata, which mummifies and blackens immature fruits and rots mature fruits. Diplodia natalensis may similarly affect 40% of the crop on some trees in South India.

Fruits punctured by insects are subject to mucor rot (caused by the fungus, Mucor hiemalis) in Hawaii. On some trees, 80% of the mature green fruits may be ruined.

Algal spotting of leaves and fruits (caused by Cephaleuros virescens) occurs in some cultivars in humid southern Florida but can be controlled with copper fungicides. During the rainy season in India, and the Province of Sancti Spiritus, Cuba, the fungus, Phytophthora parasitica, is responsible for much infectious fruit rot. Botryodiplodia sp. and Dothiorella sp. cause stem-end rot in fruits damaged during harvesting. Macrophomina sp. has been linked to fruit rot in Venezuela and Gliocladium roseum has been identified on rotting fruits on the market in India.
In Bahia, Brazil, severe deficiency symptoms of guava trees was attributed to nematodes and nematicide treatment of the soil in a circle 3 ft (0.9 in) out from the base restored the trees to normal in 5 months. Zinc deficiency may be conspicuous when the guava is grown on light soils.

It is corrected by two summer sprayings 60 days apart with zinc sulphate.

Wilt, associated with the fungi Fusarium solani and Macrophomina phaseoli, brings about gradual decline and death of undernourished 1-to 5-year-old guava trees in West Bengal. A wilt disease brought about by the wound parasite, Myxosporium psidii, causes the death of many guava trees, especially in summer, throughout Taiwan. Wilt is also caused by Fusarium oxysporum f. psidii which invades the trunk and roots through tunnels bored by the larvae of Coelosterna beetles. Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporioides) may attack the fruits in the rainy season.

Pestalotia psidii sometimes causes canker on green guavas in India and rots fruits in storage.

Severe losses are occasioned in India by birds and bats and some efforts are made to protect the crop by nets or noisemakers.


Food Uses

Raw guavas are eaten out-of-hand, but are preferred seeded and served sliced as dessert or in salads. More commonly, the fruit is cooked and cooking eliminates the strong odor. A standard dessert throughout Latin America and the Spanish-speaking islands of the West Indies is stewed guava shells (cascos de guayaba), that is, guava halves with the central seed pulp removed, strained and added to the shells while cooking to enrich the sirup. The canned product is widely sold and the shells can also be quick-frozen. They are often served with cream cheese. Sometimes guavas are canned whole or cut in half without seed removal.

Bars of thick, rich guava paste and guava cheese are staple sweets, and guava jelly is almost universally marketed. Guava juice, made by boiling sliced, unseeded guavas and straining, is much used in Hawaii in punch and ice cream sodas. A clear guava juice with all the ascorbic acid and other properties undamaged by excessive heat, is made in South Africa by trimming and mincing guavas, mixing with a natural fungal enzyme (now available under various trade names), letting stand for 18 hours at 120º to 130º F (49º-54º C) and filtering. It is made into sirup for use on waffles, ice cream, puddings and in milkshakes. Guava juice and nectar are among the numerous popular canned or bottled fruit beverages of the Caribbean area. After washing and trimming of the floral remnants, whole guavas in sirup or merely sprinkled with sugar can be put into plastic bags and quick-frozen.

There are innumerable recipes for utilizing guavas in pies, cakes, puddings, sauce, ice cream, jam, butter, marmalade, chutney, relish, catsup, and other products. In India, discoloration in canned guavas has been overcome by adding 0.06% citric acid and 0.125% ascorbic acid to the sirup. For pink sherbet, French researchers recommend 2 parts of the cultivar 'Acid Speer' and 6 parts 'Stone'. For white or pale-yellow sherbet, 2 parts 'Supreme' and 4 parts 'Large White'. In South Africa, a baby-food manufacturer markets a guava-tapioca product, and a guava extract prepared from small and overripe fruits is used as an ascorbic-acid enrichment for soft drinks and various foods.

Dehydrated guavas may be reduced to a powder which can be used to flavor ice cream, confections and fruit juices, or boiled with sugar to make jelly, or utilized as pectin to make jelly of low-pectin fruits. India finds it practical to dehydrate guavas during the seasonal glut for jelly-manufacture in the off-season. In 1947, Hawaii began sea shipment of frozen guava juice and puree in 5-gallon cans to processors on the mainland of the United States. Since 1975, Brazil has been exporting large quantities of guava paste, concentrated guava pulp, and guava shells not only to the United States but to Europe, the Middle East, Africa and Japan.

Canned, frozen guava nectar is an important product in Hawaii and Puerto Rico but may be excessively gritty unless stone cells from the outer flesh and skin are reduced by use of a stone mill or removed by centrifuging.

In South Africa, guavas are mixed with cornmeal and other ingredients to make breakfast-food flakes.

Green mature guavas can be utilized as a source of pectin, yielding somewhat more and higher quality pectin than ripe fruits.

Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion*

Calories 36-50
Moisture 77-86 g
Crude Fiber 2.8-5.5 g
Protein 0.9-1.0 g
Fat 0.1-0.5 g
Ash 0.43-0.7 g
Carbohydrates 9.5-10 g
Calcium 9.1-17 mg
Phosphorus 17.8-30 mg
Iron 0.30-0.70 mg
Carotene (Vitamin A) 200-400 I.U.
Thiamine 0.046 mg
Riboflavin 0.03-0.04 mg
Niacin0. 6-1.068 mg
Vitamin B 340 I.U.
Vitamin G4 35 I.U.


*Analyses of whole ripe guavas.

Ascorbic acid–mainly in the skin, secondly in the firm flesh, and little in the central pulp–varies from 56 to 600 mg. It may range up to 350-450 mg in nearly ripe fruit. When specimens of the same lot of fruits are fully ripe and soft, it may decline to 50-100 mg. Canning or other heat processing destroys about 50% of the ascorbic acid. Guava powder containing 2,500-3,000 mg ascorbic acid was commonly added to military rations in World War II. Guava seeds contain 14% of an aromatic oil, 15% protein and 13% starch. The strong odor of the fruit is attributed to carbonyl compounds.


Other Uses

Wood: The wood is yellow to reddish, fine-grained, compact, moderately strong, weighs 650-750 kg per cubic meter; is durable indoors; used in carpentry and turnery. Though it may warp on seasoning, it is much in demand in Malaya for handles; in India, it is valued for engravings. Guatemalans use guava wood to make spinning tops, and in El Salvador it is fashioned into hair combs which are perishable when wet. It is good fuelwood. and also a source of charcoal.

Leaves and bark: The leaves and bark are rich in tannin (10% in the leaves on a dry weight basis, 11-30% in the bark). The bark is used in Central America for tanning hides. Malayans use the leaves with other plant materials to make a black dye for silk. In southeast Asia, the leaves are employed to give a black color to cotton; and in Indonesia, they serve to dye matting.

Wood flowers: In Mexico, the tree may be parasitized by the mistletoe, Psittacanthus calyculatus Don, producing the rosette-like malformations called "wood flowers" which are sold as ornamental curiosities.

Medicinal Uses: The roots, bark, leaves and immature fruits, because of their astringency, are commonly employed to halt gastroenteritis, diarrhea and dysentery, throughout the tropics.

Crushed leaves are applied on wounds, ulcers and rheumatic places, and leaves are chewed to relieve toothache. The leaf decoction is taken as a remedy for coughs, throat and chest ailments, gargled to relieve oral ulcers and inflamed gums; and also taken as an emmenagogue and vermifuge, and treatment for leucorrhea. It has been effective in halting vomiting and diarrhea in cholera patients. It is also applied on skin diseases. A decoction of the new shoots is taken as a febrifuge. The leaf infusion is prescribed in India in cerebral ailments, nephritis and cachexia. An extract is given in epilepsy and chorea and a tincture is rubbed on the spine of children in convulsions. A combined decoction of leaves and bark is given to expel the placenta after childbirth.

The leaves, in addition to tannin, possess essential oil containing the sesquiterpene hydrocarbons caryophyllene, b-bisabolene, aromadendrene, b-selinene, nerolidiol, caryophyllene oxide and sel-11-en-4x -ol, also some triterpenoids and b-sitosterol. The bark contains tannin, crystals of calcium oxalate, ellagic acid and starch. The young fruits are rich in tannin.

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How to grow a pineapple in your home

Pineapple is one of the world's most unique and exotic tropical fruits, yet it is possible to grow it in a temperate zone under controlled conditions. Although you may not be able to grow as large a plant as is grown on a plantation in Hawaii, the following information should permit you to grow a healthy, attractive pineapple for your home.

Planting a pineapple
Pineapple is grown from planting material supplied by the plant itself. Use the crown (the leafy top) of the fruit you purchased at your grocery store. Later, your plant will produce other planting material. (More about this later.)

Preparing a crown
Remove the crown from your pineapple by twisting or cutting it off. Any adhering flesh should be trimmed off its base, or it might rot after planting. After trimming, cut the bottom of the crown (its stem) until you see root buds, which are small round structures visible around the perimeter of the stem base. Remove as little tissue as possible to avoid cutting into young stem tissue. To make planting easier, you can also strip off some of the lower leaves, exposing up to about three-fourths of an inch of the base of the crown. The small brown-colored bumps below the leaf scars are root primordia (the beginnings of roots) and there may even be a few short roots at the base if the crown.

After trimming and stripping, place the crown upside down in a dry, shaded place for about a week (5 to 7 days) before planting. This will permit the cut end and the leaf scars to heal and prevent rot.

Planting
The easiest way to grow a pineapple is in soil. Use a good light garden soil, mixing in up to 30 per cent well-composted organic matter. A commercial potting soil will also work well and will assure a disease-free potting medium.

Start your pineapple in an 8-inch porous red clay pot. Later, when it outgrows this, transplant it to a 12-inch pot, the largest size you will need. Plastic posts can also be used, but extra care needs to be taken to be sure adequate drainage is provided and plants are not overwatered.

Be sure there is good drainage since pineapples do not like "wet feet." Provide drainage by placing a curved piece of broken pot over the hole in the bottom of the pot. Over this, add about a half an inch (1 centimeter) of coarse qravel. Then add your soil.

Tamp the soil firmly around the base of the crown at planting. Avoid getting soil into the central leaves of the crown. It is possible to start, and even grow your pineapple in water, but nutrients -- which can be purchased at a gardening store -- must be added. Ask for a hydroponic fertilizer, a soluble mix that contains all of the essential plant nutrients, and follow directions for shrubs.

Feeding
Fertilize at planting and every two or three months thereafter with a good household plant food. If using a solid plant food, scatter it on the surface of the soil and wash it in by watering.

A liquid (foliar spray) fertilizer can also be used. Pour the solution into the base of the leaves and on the surface of the soil. Take special care not to pour the solution into the center of the plant as the young leaves may be injured. Follow directions under "small shrubs" given on the label of the products you use.

Watering
The pineapple plant is miserly with water, requiring only about 20 inches of natural rainfall per year, if well distributed. You need only wet the soil once a week, and when plants are indoors, it is best to apply all the water to the soil.

Light and temperaturePineapple is a tropical plant and frost or freezing temperatures will kill it. If you live in a temperate climate, your pineapple must divide its time between your house and your porch or garden.

During summer, set your plant on a sunny porch or bury the pot in your garden. Do not take your plant out of the house until all danger of frost is past. When you first remove your plant from your house, keep it in a semi-shaded spot for several days to prevent sunburn.

During cold months, keep your plant in the house. Bring it in early in the fall. Place it near a window or sliding-glass door for maximum sunlight. At night, move it away from the window to prevent freezing. If the room is warm enough for you to be comfortable, the pineapple will be at the right temperature.

You can also grow your plant indoors, for example in a basement, by using "Plant-Gro" fluorescent light tubes This light can also be helpful if your windows do not let enough sunshine into the room where you are keepinq your plant. You should keep the light on for between 12 and 14 hours per day. When the plant gets large enough to bear a fruit (see Flowering and Fruiting below), you should reduce the daylength to 10 to 11 hours until the inflorescence appears in the center of the plant. You can then return to longer days.

Pests and diseases
As house plants, your pineapple will be subject to a minimum of pests and diseases if qiven proper care. The pests most likely to attack your plant are mealybugs, scale and mites. All can be removed by washing the leaves with soapy water, rinsing after with clear water. Or, spray with an insecticide. Be sure to follow the directions on the label when using insecticides.

The only disease you will likely encounter will be heart rot caused by fungi. In heart rot, the central leaves turn black and are easily pulled out of the plant. When heart rot occurs, the plant can sometimes be saved by pouring a fungicide into the heart (center) of the plant. If this stops the infection, a side shoot will start growing. This shoot will then become your plant and will eventually flower and form a fruit. Or you can remove it and begin a new plant (see "Other planting material").

For good insecticides and fungicides, talk to your nurseryman or visit your local garden store.
Flowering and fruitingAlthough the pineapple plant is attractive in itself, most growers want their plants to flower and fruit. In Hawaii, a crown takes about 20 months to produce a ripe fruit. It may take your plant that long, or longer.

When your plant is at least 24 inches (60 to 70 centimeters) tall and 12 to 14 months old, an inflorescence bud will begin to form in the center of the leaves. You will not be able to see the developing fruit until about two months later when a bright red cone emerges. Flower development in Hawaii typically occurs in late December or January when the days are short (about 10.5 hours) and the nights are cool (55 to 65 F; about 13 to 18 C).

Later, flowers -- light blue in color -open row by row over a period of about two weeks, starting from the bottom. When the petals of the last flower have dried, the fruit begins to develop. If your pineapple plant is at least 24 inches tall and has not flowered by the time it is 20 to 24 months old, you can "force" it with an inexpensive chemical.

Forcing your plant
To force your plant, place a small lump of calcium carbide about the size of your little fingernail in the center of your plant and pour a quarter cup of water over it. This will release acetylene gas which will force your plant to flower. To improve your chances of success, it is best to treat your plant in the evening after the sun goes down and temperatures are cooler. (Calcium carbide may be obtainable at a welding shop, garden store, pharmacy or toy store.)

You can also 'force' a plant by enclosing it completely in a polyethylene bag together with two ripe apples for one week. The ethylene gas released from the ripe apples will do the trick.

Harvesting your pineapple
When your fruit is about six months old, about four months after flowering has occurred, changes begin to occur. The color of the shell changes from green to rich gold. The color change of the shell occurs first at the bottom of the fruit and moves upwards. During this change, the fruit becomes sweeter and the color of the flesh changes from white to yellow. The fruit will weigh from two to four pounds.

When the fruit is golden half way up it can be picked and eaten. You can wait longer if you wish.

Producing a second or ratoon fruit
Either during or after the fruit on the mother plant has ripened, one or more shoots, they are called suckers by pineapple growers, will grow from the mother-plant stem. If you want your original plant to produce another fruit, leave one or at most two of the shoots on the plant to produce a second or ratoon fruit. Excess shoots can be cut off and potted (See Other planting material). Continue to feed and water your plant as you did when it was first planted. In Hawaii, it takes about one additional year to produce a first ratoon fruit. If the plant remains healthy, it may even be possible to produce a third crop, called a second ratoon.

Other planting material
After the fruit is picked, branches on the main stem of the plant -- called shoots -- and sometimes on the stem just below the fruit -- called slips --can be removed and used for planting material. After these branches are about 12 inches long, you can cut or break them off close to the stem. Many of the varieties now being grown produce few or no slips, so do not be concerned if your plant doesn't produce slips.

Prepare and grow your slips and shoots in the same manner you did your crown. In the case of slips, there may be a small knob at their base. This should be cut off. Because they are larger, slips and shoots will produce a fruit in less time than to takes for a crown. It is best to use plant size as a guide in determining the best time to force flowering. Slips and shoots grow most rapidly while attached to the mother plant, so it is best to let them grow for several months after the fruit is removed.

Prepared by the Pineapple Research Institute of Hawaii, which closed in 1972. Slightly revised on 6/5/2000. If you are interested in a personal experience, see Rombough, L.J. 1995. A passon for pineapple. Indoor & Patio Gardening, Jan. issue, pp. 56-59.

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How To Grow A Pineapple : What Next?


What Next?

Over the previous year, there may have been a few new plants to emerge from the lower foliage. Let these grow as large as possible before you remove them to start the process all over again using the same method as with the original mother plant. In addition, there may be one or more shoots, suckers or slips (see picture) that you may have noticed after harvesting the fruit that are growing from the mother-plant stem. Slips and shoots grow most rapidly while attached to the mother plant, so it is best to let them grow for several months after the fruit is removed. After these branches are about 12 inches long, you can cut or break them off close to the stem and grow your slips, suckers and shoots in the same manner you did your crown. In the case of slips, there may be a small knob at their base. This should be cut off. Because they are larger, slips and shoots will produce a fruit in less time than to takes for a crown.
If you want your original plant to produce another fruit, leave one or at most two of the shoots on the plant to produce a second, or ratoon, fruit. Excess shoots can be cut off and potted. Continue to feed and water your plant as you did when it was first planted. In Hawaii, it takes about one additional year to produce a first ratoon fruit. If the plant remains healthy, it may even be possible to produce a third crop, called a second ratoon. You can also grow another plant from the crown of the harvested fruit, leaving you with several, new, free plants.

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เขียนโดย everlastinglovesong เมื่อ 0 ความคิดเห็น ลิงก์ไปยังบทความนี้

How To Grow A Pineapple : Flowering and Fruiting

Flowering and Fruiting

Although the pineapple plant is attractive in and of itself, most growers want their plants to flower and fruit. In Hawaii, a crown takes about twenty to twenty-six months to produce a ripe fruit. However, it may only take twenty months, and you will see some surprises along the way. When your plant is at least 24 inches tall and twelve to fourteen months old, an inflorescence bud will begin to form in the center of the leaves. You will not be able to see the developing fruit until about two months later when it will surprise you with a bright red cone emerges from its center. For an excellent photo log (Plog?) of one enthusiast's success with growing a fruit, click here.


(By the way, to the right you can see very healthy baby pineapples growing at Longwood Gardens, in Longwood, PA. There were a total of 8 plants in the room. Clearly they have a system that works!)


After twenty months come the flowers. Bright blue flowers open row by row, starting at the bottom, over about two weeks (flower development in Hawaii typically occurs in late December or January when the days are short (about 10.5 hours) and the nights are cool (55 to 65 F; about 13 to 18 C)). Each flower only lasts one day, but there are many to enjoy.



When the petals of the last flower have dried, the fruit begins to develop. After three to six months from this period, your fruit will begin to ripen. When the fruit is golden halfway up, your pineapple is ready. Surprisingly enough it will be just about the size of a can of pineapple, or a bit larger.


If your pineapple plant is at least 24 inches tall and has not flowered by the time it is twenty to twenty-four months old, you can "force" it with a few different techniques that trick the plant into putting its energy into flowering instead of making new leaves.

Forced Fruiting

It is best to force the plant to flower during the winter months when the days are cooler and shorter as this is when a pineapple is accustomed to making fruit.


The first technique is to lay the plant and pot on its side between waterings. This interferes with hormones in the plant, causing the production of another hormone, ethylene, which induces flowering.


A second method of inducing flowering is to place the plant in a bag with two ripe & bruised apples for two weeks. Move the plant to a shady location during this time, and then move it back to its sunny spot. The ripening apples produce ethylene gas that will induce flowering in the pineapple.


A third method is to place a small lump of calcium carbide about the size of your little fingernail in the center of your plant and pour a quarter cup of water over it. This will release acetylene gas that will force your plant to flower. To improve your chances of success, it is best to treat your plant in the evening after the sun goes down and temperatures are cooler. (Calcium carbide may be obtainable at a welding shop, garden store, pharmacy or toy store.)


Two to three months later, the plant should form a flower spike in its center.

Harvesting your pineapple

When your fruit is about six months old, about four months after flowering has occurred, changes begin to occur. The color of the shell changes from green to rich gold. The color change of the shell occurs first at the bottom of the fruit and moves upwards.


During this change, the fruit becomes sweeter and the color of the flesh changes from white to yellow. The fruit will weigh from two to four pounds. When the fruit is golden half way up it can be picked and eaten, though if you wait until it's fully ripe it will be worth the wait! Once the fruit develops, it should last on the plant for several months.

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เขียนโดย everlastinglovesong เมื่อ 0 ความคิดเห็น ลิงก์ไปยังบทความนี้

How To Grow A Pineapple : General Care & Feeding


General Care & Feeding

Light and temperature
A pineapple is a tropical plant and frost or freezing temperatures will kill it. If you live in a temperate climate, your pineapple must divide its time between your house and your porch or garden.

Pineapples like to get at least 6 hours of bright light each day. During summer, set your plant on a sunny porch or bury the pot in your garden. Do not take your plant out of the house until all danger of frost is past. When you first remove your plant from your house, keep it in a semi-shaded spot for several days to prevent sunburn.

During cold months, keep your plant in the house. Bring it in early in the fall, by mid-September. Place it near a window or sliding-glass door for maximum sunlight. At night, move it away from the window to prevent freezing. The pineapple prefers a temperature of 65 - 75 degrees F (minimum of 60 degrees). If the room is warm enough for you to be comfortable, the pineapple will be at the right temperature.

You can also grow your plant indoors, for example in a basement, by using "Plant-Gro" fluorescent light tubes. This light can also be helpful if your windows do not let enough sunshine into the room where you are keeping your plant. You should keep the light on for between 12 and 14 hours per day. When the plant gets large enough to bear a fruit you should reduce the day length to 10 to 11 hours until the inflorescence appears in the center of the plant. You can then return to longer days.

Watering and fertilizing
The pineapple plant is miserly with water, requiring only about 20 inches of natural rainfall per year, if well distributed. You need only wet the soil once a week, and when the plant is indoors, it is best to apply all the water to the soil. When outside, spray the leaves in addition to wetting the soil so that the cups at the bottom of the plant are filled. It is also important that it never completely dries out. Then again, it must never sit in soggy soil. During its growing season, it will appreciate more water than in the winter months.

Fertilize carefully and only about once every month or so during the growing season. If using a solid plant food, scatter it on the surface of the soil and wash it in by watering.

A liquid (foliar spray) fertilizer can also be used. Pour the solution into the base of the leaves and on the surface of the soil. Take special care not to pour the solution into the center of the plant as the young leaves may be injured. Follow directions under "small shrubs" given on the label of the products you use.

Pests and diseases
As house plants, your pineapple will be subject to a minimum of pests and diseases if given proper care. The pests most likely to attack your plant are mealy bugs, scale and mites. All can be removed by washing the leaves with soapy water, rinsing after with clear water. Or, spray with an insecticide. Be sure to follow the directions on the label when using insecticides.

The only disease you would likely encounter would be heart rot caused by fungi. In heart rot, the central leaves turn black and are easily pulled out of the plant. When heart rot occurs, the plant can sometimes be saved by pouring a fungicide into the heart (center) of the plant. If this stops the infection, a side shoot will start growing. This shoot will then become your plant and will eventually flower and form a fruit. Or you can remove it and begin a new plant.

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How To Grow A Pineapple : STEP FIVE


STEP FIVE – Repot the Crown


Repot the pineapple in a twelve-inch porous clay pot with a well-draining potting soil such as a cactus potting soil. See the photos below of my 2 pineapple plants after their 2nd repotting. Be sure there is good drainage since pineapples do not like 'wet feet'. Provide drainage by placing a curved piece of broken pot over the hole in the bottom of the pot. Over this, add about a half an inch of coarse gravel or small stones, and then add your soil up to an inch from the top, patting down the soil gently to firm it up.

Tamp the soil firmly around the base of the crown at planting. Avoid getting soil into the central leaves of the crown.

Rot is commonly caused by over watering or the soil not draining properly. The plant should only stop growing during the winter months. It will put out new growth all during the early spring and summer well into fall. If the plant stops growing during its growing season, take the plant out of the pot and examine the root structure carefully. They should be firm and solid. If necessary, wash off the old potting mix and repot into fresh mix.

As the pineapple continues to grow, you may need to repot it into an even larger pot if it gets root-bound.

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How To Grow A Pineapple : STEP FOUR


STEP FOUR – Plant the Crown

Once roots appear, plant the pineapple in a fast draining potting soil such as a Bromeliad or Cactus Potting Soil mixed with a third perlite. An eight-inch porous clay pot with bottom drainage is ideal. Layer about two inches of stones in the bottom of the pot prior to putting in the soil/perlite mix. The picture to the left illustrates the materials needed (the two pottery shards in the front are to put over the drainage holes; these came from an extra clay saucer that I broke up).

The first step is to cover the drainage hole with the pottery shard. Second, put in a
layer of stones followed by the soil and perlite mix. Finally, plant the crown and water it thoroughly prior to placing it in a window or some other sunny place. You can see the sequence in the pictures to the right (the inner leaves of the pineapple on the left are easily pulled out which doesn't bode well for the plant. Only time will tell which is a good example of why it's good to root two plants in case one dies).

In terms of watering, the soil should always be slightly moist; not wet (which will promote rot) and not dry. It will take six to eight weeks for the stalk to really start sending out strong roots. Do not rush this process or fertilize at this point.

After about two months, the pineapple should be supporting itself as a new plant. Gently tug on the plant to see if new roots have formed. If they are present, they will resist your tug. If absent, the top of the pineapple will pull from the soil revealing the absence of new roots. If there are no new roots, replace the pineapple top in the soil and wait longer. If the base looks like it is rotting, start again with a new pineapple top, root it again as above and then use fresh potting soil. Repeat the process, but be sure not to over water.

At this point you should notice that the original leaves of the pineapple will begin to die and turn brown, with new leaves beginning to grow at the center. Over the course of the following year, remove the original leaves as they die. During this time the pineapple should be watered no more than once a week.

If roots have developed with the new leaf growth, it is a sign that things are going well.

After one full year of growth, repot the plant.

Below you can see these two plants one year later. Three lessons I've learned:
1) don't give up on your plant even when things are looking grim (the pictures on the right are of one of the plants that had rotted in the center; you can see two brand new sprouts that formed along side the original plant.)


I was about to toss it when I noticed the first sprout.

2) my plants rooted indoors, however real growth didn't begin until I took them outside in the spring. With the next growing season they'll be repotted as instructed below.

3) grow two crowns as one will likely not be as strong as the other. Then you can repot the healthier one. You may also notice that I clipped the tips off of the plants as I think I left them outside too long, and the cold turned their tips brown.


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How To Grow A Pineapple : STEP THREE


STEP THREE – Root the Crown

There are various ways to do this, but I have found after trying several methods, that the simplest is the most effective. Place the crown in a clear glass of water and change out the water every few days. Place the crown away from any temperature extremes (heating or cooling vents/hot south-facing windows). On top of the refrigerator will work. In three weeks you'll see healthy root growth as illustrated in the pictures at right. You're now ready to plant the crown. As an aside, I've been told that if you use a dark colored glass, like a red plastic cup for example, you'll get better rooting. However I haven't tried this myself. You might want to try a clear glass as well as a dark glass, and let me know your results.



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How To Grow A Pineapple : STEP TWO

STEP TWO - Prepare the Crown


Grab hold of the entire top set of leaves. Twist hard and it will come out with a bit of stalk. (If you cut the top off you will need to remove all of the excess fruit flesh, otherwise it will only rot and may kill the whole plant). Any adhering flesh should be trimmed off its base to prevent rotting after planting. After trimming, carefully slice small, horizontal sections from the bottom of the crown until you see root buds that appear as small dots or circles on the flat, cut surface (see picture). Remove as little tissue as possible to avoid cutting into young stem tissue.



Next, strip off some of the lower leaves, exposing up to about an inch of the base
of the crown (the stalk will root but the leaves will rot - see photo). They will come off in sort of a spiral fashion. The idea is to bare the stalk. The small brown-colored bumps below the leaf scars are root primordia (baby roots waiting to grow) and there may even be a few short roots at the base of the crown (the picture at right shows a crown with a lot of roots). Though these won't be the roots that will grow in the next step, try not to damage these.





After trimming and stripping, let the crown dry out for a couple days before going to the next step. This will permit the cut end and the leaf scars to heal and prevent rot.

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How To Grow A Pineapple : STEP ONE


STEP ONE - Obtain a Pineapple

From the local grocery store, choose a mature pineapple that has healthy, firm, green leaves (not yellow or brown) and with a fruit skin that is golden brown (not too green). Actually, I'd recommend growing two pineapples in the not unlikely event that one of them dies. At the very least you can pick the healthiest of the two plants to nurture to full growth. Also, if you find you have more pineapple than you can eat, just chop it up and freeze it. It tastes great!

Inspect the base of the leaves for small grayish spots which are scale insects. If these are found, the crown should be discarded and one selected which is free of these insects. Try to find one that is ripe but not overripe. Test for ripeness by gently pulling on a leaf. If it pops out with ease, the fruit is overripe.To make the most use of the pineapple, use the pineapple corer you see here. It's an inexpensive but ingenious little gadget that cores and slices all in one step!


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How To Grow A Pineapple : introduction




If you'd like to learn how to grow a pineapple that will yield a sweet-tasting fruit, then you've come to the right place. This page is chock full of everything you need to know. But first let me put in a plug for my wife's photography web site where you can peruse her artwork, and even download a print to put on your wall. Just click on the banner below.




Pineapple is one of the world's most unique and exotic tropical fruits, yet it is possible to grow it in a temperate zone under controlled conditions; with the most difficult part of the process just getting it rooted. Although you may not be able to grow as large a plant as is grown on a plantation in Hawaii, the following information should enable you to grow a healthy, attractive pineapple for your home. And it makes a fun family project for the kids!



With some patience, you can even grow a new pineapple from this plant. It takes about two to three years, though, and even then some plants are difficult to get to produce new fruit. However, I've searched the web and have provided below the best techniques for improving your odds of harvesting a ripe & delicious pineapple that will fill your house with its aroma. To make full-sized pineapples, the plant will ultimately need to get about six feet across and six feet tall. But, you can grow it as an interesting indoor plant and even get it to produce fruit (albeit small fruit) without letting it take over the living room :-)



Here is some interesting trivia about your pineapple. The pineapple is a member of the bromeliad family. As such it is related to Spanish moss and some interesting ornamental plants sold in many nurseries. These ornamentals are interesting in that they absorb water and nutrients from a water-tight reservoir formed where the leaves come together, or by interesting absorptive hairs which cover the Spanish moss and similar bromeliads, allowing them to draw water and nutrients from the fog and dust in the air. The pineapple, however, uses its roots like houseplants with which you are familiar and should be easy to grow if you treat it like a normal houseplant that needs bright light.



There seems to be no definitive site given for the original discovery of pineapples in the new world. It is thought they may have originated in the northeastern area of South America, near what is now known today as Guiana. There are several different pineapples besides the grocery store variety. For example, an Ananas nana is one of the smallest, about eighteen inches tall and grows in a six-inch pot. One of the showiest pineapples is Ananas bracteatus, tricolor. When mature it is about four to five feet in diameter and about the same height. It flushes a brilliant pink at the base of its white and green striped leaves. It also has pink recurved spines so caution must be exercised when working around the plant. Our commercial pineapple, Ananas cosmos, var. Smooth Cayene is the one most people are familiar with, but only in a can, as a fruit.




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Nutritional value of the Blackberry.



Blackberries

Scientific Name: Rubus spp.

Value: (per 100 gram of the edible part)



Proximates

Water - 85.640 gram
Energy - 52 kcal
Energy - 218 kj
Protein - 0.720 gram
Total lipid (fat) - 0.390 gram
Carbohydrate, by difference - 12.760 gram
Fiber, total dietary - 5.300 gram


Minerals

Calcium, Ca - 32 mg Iron,
Fe - 0.570 mg Magnesium,
Mg - 20 mg
Phosphorus, P - 21 mg
Potassium, K - 196 mg
Sodium, Na - 0 mg
Zinc, Zn - 0.270 mg
Copper, Cu - 0.140 mg
Manganese, Mn - 1.291 mg
Selenium, Se - 0 mcg


Vitamins

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid - 21 mg
Thiamin - 0.030 mg
Riboflavin - 0.040 mg
Niacin - 0.400 mg
Pantothenic acid - 0.240 mg
Vitamin B-6 - 0.058 mg
Folate - 34 mcg
Vitamin A, IU - 165 IU
Vitamin A, RE - 16 mcg_RE


Source: US Department of Agriculture

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Nutritional value of the Guava



Guava


Scientific Name: Psidium guajava

Value: (per 100 gram of the edible part)


Proximates

Water - 86.100 gram
Energy - 51 kcal
Energy - 213 kj
Protein - 0.820 gram
Total lipid (fat) - 0.600 gram
Carbohydrate, by difference - 11.880 gram
Fiber, total dietary - 5.400 gram


Minerals

Calcium, Ca - 20 mg
Iron, Fe - 0.310 mg
Magnesium, Mg - 10 mg
Phosphorus, P - 25 mg
Potassium, K - 284 mg
Sodium, Na - 3 mg
Zinc, Zn - 0.230 mg
Copper, Cu - 0.103 mg
Manganese, Mn - 0.144 mg S
elenium, Se - 0.600 mcg


Vitamins
Vitamin C, ascorbic acid - 183.500 mg
Thiamin - 0.050 mg
Riboflavin - 0.050 mg
Niacin - 1.200 mg
Pantothenic acid - 0.150 mg
Vitamin B-6 - 0.143 mg
Folate - 14 mcg
Vitamin A, IU - 792 IU
Vitamin A, RE - 79 mcg_RE


Source: US Department of Agriculture

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Nutritional value of the Apricots

Apricots



Scientific Name: Prunus armeniaca


Value: (per 100 gram of the edible part)




Proximates



Water - 86.350 gram

Energy - 48 kcal

Energy - 201 kj

Protein - 1.400 gram

Total lipid (fat) - 0.390 gram

Carbohydrate, by difference - 11.120 gram

Fiber, total dietary - 2.400 gram




Minerals


Calcium, Ca - 14 mg

Iron, Fe - 0.540 mg

Magnesium, Mg - 8 mg

Phosphorus, P - 19 mg

Potassium, K - 296 mg

Sodium, Na - 1 mg Zinc, Zn - 0.260 mg

Copper, Cu - 0.089 mg

Manganese, Mn - 0.079 mg

Selenium, Se - 0.400 mcg




Vitamins


Vitamin C, ascorbic acid - 10 mg

Thiamin - 0.030 mg

Riboflavin - 0.040 mg

Niacin - 0.600 mg

Pantothenic acid - 0.240 mg

Vitamin B-6 - 0.054 mg

Folate - 8.600 mcg

Vitamin A, IU - 2612 IU

Vitamin A, RE - 261 mcg_RE


Source: US Department of Agriculture

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Käsefrucht Durian


Käsefrucht Durian


Von Lionel Bauer


An der Durian-Frucht scheiden sich die Geister - entweder man mag sie, und dann trifft zu, was der britische Naturforscher Alfred Russell Wallace (der unabhängig von Charles Darwin, aber just zur selben Zeit das biologische Gesetz der Evolution entdeckte) Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts in sein Tagebuch schrieb, nachdem er auf Borneo seine erste Durian verzehrt hatte: "Je mehr man davon ißt, desto weniger ist man geneigt, auf sie zu verzichten."


Macht die Durian also süchtig? Nicht im Sinne einer körperlichen Sucht. Aber wer Durians mag, der wird sie mit großer Wahrscheinlichkeit auf den Spitzenplatz seiner Präferenzliste setzen. Und wer käme schon auf den Gedanken, einem Apfel oder einer Birne ein Denkmal zu errichten? Doch in der südphilippinischen Stadt Davao steht ein Durian-Denkmal - genauso selbstverständlich wie in München die Bavaria, wenn auch nicht ganz so groß.


Oder man mag sie nicht, die Durian, und dann reagiert man fast allergisch auf die Frucht, und man kann sie, im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes, nicht riechen.


Denn die Durian stinkt, sie stinkt sogar ganz fürchterlich (und das geben sogar Durian-Fanatiker zu), und zwar nach einer Mischung aus Limburger Käse und Baby-Kot. Und weil die Durian so stinkt, hat sie in den meisten Hotels in Südostasians Hausverbot, besonders in den touristisch orientierten, und dieses Hausverbot wird oft durch Schilder kundgetan, die bisweilen so groß sind, daß man sie wirklich nicht übersehen kann.


Die Haupt-Erntezeit für Durian-Früchte beginnt im April und umfaßt den ganzen Mai. Hauptsächlich in den südlicheren Teilen thailands, in denen die Regenzeit von Juni bis Oktober weniger ausgeprägt ist, werden Durians bis in den August geerntet. Am billigsten sind Durians im Mai, wenn man das Kilo für 15 bis 20 Baht bekommt - das gilt für die Standard-Sorten.

Die Frucht mit Stacheln, die so groß und fast so scharf sind wie die Zähne einer Holzsäge, wächst auf riesigen Bäumen und erreicht ein Gewicht von einem halben bis fünf Kilos, wobei die 2-Kilo-Gewichtsklasse die vorherrschende ist. Wie in Deutschland bei den Äpfeln, so gibt es auch bei den Durians verschiedene Arten. Und obwohl sich die verschiedenen Durian-Sorten geschmacklich und dem Aussehen nach weniger voneinander unterscheiden als die Sorten deutscher Äpfel, bei denen es rote, grüne und gelbe gibt, sind bei den Durian-Arten die Preisunterschiede enorm.


Die am weitesten verbreitete Qualitätssorte ist Cha Ni, die während der Haupt-Erntezeit im April und Mai zum oben erwähnten Preis von 15 bis 20 Baht erhältlich ist. Die teuerste Sorte ist Mon Thong, deren Preis meist etwa das doppelte dessen der Cha Ni beträgt.


Es wäre aber übertrieben, zu behaupten, die Sorte Mon Thong sei so viel besser. Zwar ist die Sorte Mon Thong etwas süßer und das Fruchtfleisch noch etwas kremiger. Was die Sorte Mon Thong aber in erster Linie auszeichnet, ist, daß sie im Körper weniger intensiv nacharbeitet. Denn je nachdem, wie gut ein Verdauungstrakt mit Durians fertig wird, werden die meisten Menschen noch nach Stunden durch Aufstoßen daran erinnert, daß sie Durian gegessen haben. Das riecht dann auch die Umwelt, und je nachdem, wie sehr man im Beruf einen guten Eindruck machen muß, ist das mehr oder minder störend.


Es ist nicht besonders hilfreich, zu beschreiben, wie eine Durian schmeckt. Wer sie einmal probiert hat, weiß mehr über ihren Geschmack als jemand, der darüber mehrere Seiten in einem Buch gelesen hat. Mit dieser Einschränkung ist die folgende Beschreibung für Leute gedacht, die (da zur Zeit nicht, noch nicht in Thailand) keine Gelegenheit haben, sich einfach einmal eine Durian zu kaufen.


Durians sind, wie gesagt, stachlige Früchte mit einem Durchschnittsgewicht von etwa 2 kg. Die Frucht ist schwer zu öffnen, und es empfiehlt sich, dies den Durian-Verkäufer machen zu lassen, der darin Routine hat. Die Frucht hat fünf Segmente, in denen jeweils ein gelbes, kremiges Fruchtfleisch ein bis fünf große Kerne umfaßt. Gegessen wird ausschließlich das gelbe Fruchtfleisch. Dies beträgt nur etwa 15 % des Gewichts der Frucht.


Obwohl 15 % Durian-Fruchtfleisch sich im Vergleich zu gut 90 % Fruchtfleisch bei Äpfeln, Birnen, Pfirsichen oder Mangos nicht gerade gut ausnimmt, ist es keineswegs so, daß man an einer 1-Kilo-Durian weniger satt würde als an einem Kilo Pfirsichen oder Mangos. Das Durian-Fruchtfleisch hat nur einen geringen Wasseranteil (geringer als der von Bananen), und von 150 oder 200 Gramm Durian-Fruchtfleisch ist man gerade so satt wie von 900 Gramm Pfirsich-Fruchtfleisch. Man schmeckt es der Durian-Frucht geradezu an, daß sie nicht nur einen hohen Nährwert hat, sondern auch an Mineralstoffen überaus reich ist.

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Durians in Thailand

Durians in Thailand

By Lionel Bauer


The following is an excerpt of a text based on a description of the Thai ministry of tourism:

Beginning in May and extending through August, the durian announces its presence in Thai markets with a distinctive, highly pervasive aroma. To Thais, as well as to many other Asians, the stink is a welcome odor for they regard durian as the king of fruits, a rare delicacy that is well worth the comparatively high price it commands.

Some visitors, on the other hand, are deterred by the potent smell and never actually sample the creamy golden flesh hidden within the spiny exterior - thereby missing one of the truly great pleasures of fruit eating. "The more you eat of it the less you feel inclined to stop," wrote Alfred Russell Wallace, after eating his first durian on Borneo in the 19th century, and most of those who follow his example are likely to agree with him.



Thai durians are noted for their subtle flavor and smooth texture, often winning over gourmets who have failed to respond in other countries where the fruit grows. Three of the most popular varieties (and there are several dozen to choose from) are cha ni, kan yao, and the most prized of all, mon thong.

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Nutritional value of the durian


Nutritional value of the durian

Value:(per 100 gram of the edible part)

Water - 64.990 gram
Energy - 147 kcal
Energy - 615 kj
Protein - 1.47 gram
Total lipid (fat) - 5.33 gram
Carbohydrate, by difference - 27.09 gram
Fiber, total dietary - 3.8 gram

Minerals

Calcium, Ca - 6 mg
Iron, Fe - 0.430 mg
Magnesium, Mg - 30 mg
Phosphorus, P - 38 mg
Potassium, K - 436 mg
Sodium, Na - 1 mg
Zinc, Zn - 0.28 mg
Copper, Cu - 0.207 mg
Manganese, Mn - 0.324 mg


Vitamins

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid - 19.7 mg
Thiamin - 0.374 mg
Riboflavin - 0.2 mg
Niacin - 1.074 mg
Pantothenic acid - 0.23 mg
Vitamin B-6 - 0.316 mg
Vitamin A, IU - 45.000 IU
Vitamin A, RE - 5.000 mcg_RE

Source: US Department of Agriculture

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Eating durian for health and youth


Eating durian for health and youth


By Lionel Bauer

Durian is a fruit unique to Southeast Asia. This is sort-of strange, as almost any fruit or vegetable with a somewhat appealing taste has long become a universally cultivated crop. And not that the durian would be lacking in taste appeal. Those who like durian typically regard it as the king of fruit. And even in countries where, during the harvest season, there is a real flood of durians, prices never drop to dirt-cheap levels, as they do for pineapples and bananas.

Well, durians have a strong smell and a unique taste. Could be that those who haven't seen others indulging in durians have doubts as to the fruit's fitness for human consumption. Judging by the fruit's smell, its flesh moves straight from unripe to rotten.

But when good durians are available at reasonable prices I can, for weeks on end, make durian the staple of my diet. And I enjoy a good health doing so.

I haven't been to a hospital or physician for years, and I practically never take any medicine. Anyway, I have little confidence in medical science, and would never undergo an operation that requires full anesthesia.
I can eat durian for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and I am confident that I can do so until an old age, without developing diabetes or hepatitis. Actually, I even believe that the durian has a magical power to keep me young and look young, without facelifts or other cosmetic or plastic surgery.
Only slowly, durians are catching on in other parts of the world. They aren't grown yet commercially on other continents, though the climate would be ideal in the Northern parts of South America, as well as sub-Saharan Africa. (I have been informed by a reader that there are a few durian trees on Zanzibar.)

Durians are catching on in other parts of the world primarily because Thailand now produces, on a large scale, exportable durian fruit of the Mon Thong variety. Mon Thong is the only durian variety that is suitable to be shipped (usually by plane) to far-away destinations because Mon Thong durian can be harvested weeks before they have fully ripened, can be stored for weeks, and have no tendency to rot prematurely.
Classical durian varieties as they are common in Indonesia (mainly Sumatra and Borneo) have to ripen on the tree and are harvested only once they have fallen off on their own. They are then best eaten within some 6 hours, or, at least, within a day. They will lose flavor and texture beginning on the second day after having fallen off the tree.
Thai agriculturists have also succeeded in minimizing the typical offensive durian smell. On Thai durian plantations, transplantation surgery on this cash crop is a common occurrence. By transplanting branches of grown trees onto newly growing trees of less than 70 cm in height, they keep the trees of their plantations low… a precondition for making the harvesting of unripe fruit an easy task. Naturally growing durian trees can reach an impressive height of up to 30 meters.

As a result of the efforts of Thai agriculturists, durian fruit now is exported to North America, with Western Canada a major destination (as Western Canada, particularly Vancouver, has a substantial population of Asian, especially Southern Chinese, origin).
Commercial Mon Thong durians are the most digestion-friendly sub-species. By this, I don't mean that in general, durians would be hard to digest. No stomach cramps and no excessive winds as with cabbage, and no discharge pain as with chilies. But with non-Mon Thong durians, there will be burping, and burps do smell like the durian fruit... socially not acceptable even in counties where durians are grown. Mon Thong is clearly the mildest kind of durian fruit. (But even in Thailand, durians are usually banned in offices and hospitals.)

However, Mon Thong durians are like Del Monte bananas. They are a neat agricultural product: they look good (no wrinkles, no age spots) on supermarket shelves, they stay young and can be stored with ease for quite some time, produce little odor, are of predictable, standardized quality. But they no longer have quite the original taste. OK, I don't mind what they do with bananas. But for the durian, it's a loss.

Durians are like grapes and wine, or like cheese. They are a food for gourmets, for connoisseurs. For genuine durian lovers, differentiating tastes in accordance to variety and region can be a true science.

Classic durians, as they are found on Sumatra and Borneo, come in as wide a variety and shades of taste as does wine, or cheese. Though there isn't a durian culture yet as there is a wine culture, there would be a good foundation for it. It's probably only a matter of Southeast Asia becoming sufficiently developed in economic terms to support food culture on a Western level.

Gourmet durian culture will have to be centered on Sumatra and Borneo, just as wine and cheese culture is centered on France.

Thailand may currently be the world's main durian exporter, and has the lowest prices (during the season in May), but Indonesia is the cradle of the fruit, and has hundreds of yet unclassified varieties.

Those who know only the standard Thai Mon Thong variety will be surprised in how many different flavors and textures durian can come.

Standard Thai Mon Thong durians have sweet fruity-tasting meat with a firm texture and of yellow color. It's the variety that is the least likely to be outright disliked. It's also a bit boring for the taste buds.

Indonesian durians come in a wide range of flavors.

My own preferred variety has white, wrinkled meat with a texture like whipped cream and a bitter-sweet, nutty taste.

When the meat is not wrinkled upon opening of the fruit, the taste will be less creamy, and rather fruity.

You are less likely to find bitter-sweet durians with yellow meat, but occasionally you will come across that combination, too.

Yellow-meat durians are usually just sweet, not bitter-sweet. They also are less likely to have a nutty flavor.

"Durian", by the way, is an Indonesian word. "Duri" translates as thorn, and "durian" means thorny. Therefore durian, by name, is the thorny fruit. Which indeed, it is. You can kill a person by throwing a durian at his head. It's just like a ball of spikes. (There is another Southeast Asian fruit, known by an Indonesian name: Rambutan, the "hair fruit", "rambut" being the Indonesian word for "hair".)

Indonesia has the best climate for durians (highly tropical), and in the chief Indonesian durian-growing area of North Sumatra, durians are available year round. Incidentally, during the Thai durian season of mid-April to mid-June, there is the least output on North Sumatra, and prices rise to threefold their peak season's level.

I am convinced that durians are good for health, not just because fruit in general is healthy.

The locals in all countries where durians are grown believe that it heats the body. You'll be told that if you eat durian before bedtime, you won't need a blanket. I haven't seen any scientific proof in that direction, and I have been feeling unusually hot only a few times after eating durians in the evening.

From my own experience of eating thousands of durian fruits, I know that in some magical way, eating durian (in sufficient quantity) will clear the lungs and breath pathways. After having consumed the flesh of two durians with a combined weight (not yet pealed) of about 4 kg, I always cough up phlegm from my lungs.

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Transplantation of Durian abroad

Transplantation of Durian abroad

By Lionel Bauer

Durian fruits are not widely available outside of Southeast Asia. Some fruits may occasionally make it to delicatessen shops in the US and specifically Western Canada, but they are always imported from Southeast Asia, and they are usually of the Thai variety, which is durable but lacks in taste.


It wouldn't have to be this way. The durian tree, of course, is native to Southeast Asia, primarily Sumatra and Borneo.


But durian trees could easily be transplanted to equatorial Africa, or equatorial Central America, or in the Southern United States, or possibly even southern Mediterranean Europe.


The reason why it hasn't been planted in these areas of the world probably has to do with the fruit's smell. Farmers outside Southeast Asia have never had much confidence that it would sell.


But of the people from Western countries who have visited Southeast Asia, or even have lived here for some time, a good number have learned to love the fruit.


As a matter of fact, there are few culinary delicacies that have as dedicated a following as does the durian, in Southeast Asia as well as among Westerners who have tasted it. Few people would drive 10 or 20 kilometers a day for the opportunity to eat apples, or pineapples, or bananas. We eat these fruits when they are available… and when they are not, never mind, we eat something else.


But to obtain durians, many people would take considerable effort. Plant their own durian trees, for example.


If the Western durian lovers who have been to Southeast Asia (as normal tourists, or as sex tourists, or, increasingly, as cosmetic surgery tourists looking for the best deals in facelifts, hair transplantations, liposuction, or tummy tucks) have the opportunity to eat quality durians at a good price, they may even travel 50 kilometers, or they may finally decide to plant some themselves.


Anyway, among the Southeast Asian magical plants and herbs that are supposed to help with sexual desire and sexual function, durians are still the easiest to handle. Trying to grow some tongkat ali, kacip fatimah, or sirih leaves will be more effort.


Durian trees take 5 to 10 years to bear fruit, and when they do, you can expect 20 to 50 fruits every year. The tree will grow on any kind of soil, provided it gets enough water, especially during the time, the fruit ripens. Genuine durians (not the Thai plastic variety) should be left to ripen on the tree, until they fall down. They are at their best in the first 12 hours after having falling off the tree.

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How to choose a durian


How to choose a durian

By Lionel Bauer


The famous French gourmet bible Larousse Gastronomique advises that a durian is ready to be eaten when its husks begin to crack.

I cannot judge the Larousse Gastronomique on other culinary topics, but on durians, their advice is misleading.

You can wait with a Thai Mon Tong durian, or maybe a Cha Ni, until it cracks, but with all other varieties, it's a foul strategy.

With practically all Indonesian durian varieties (and Indonesia has the greatest local durian consumption in the world), it is best to eat a durian within about six hours after it has fallen from a tree even if it may so difficult to open it that a man with proper tools is needed for the job.

Buying and eating Mon Thong durians in Thailand is a low risk venture. You can buy durians in the market, and for as long as the fruit is ripe, it will be ok. Seldom will it happen that a fruit, which looks all right outside, will be rotten inside.

"Kampung" is the Malay and Indonesian word for "village". "Durian Kampung" means that these durian fruits do not come from a plantation but from a village… from original durian trees, and not from trees that have been grafted, or genetically manipulated. No plantation durian can match the taste of a durian kampung.

In Indonesia, to buy the fruit and take it home is the wrong approach. You will often be disappointed. At least a third of the durians sold in Indonesia are not optimal. The following can happen:

1. Overripe. The flesh is pulpy (beceh), and the sulphuric taste component is too strong. The fruit will cause a lot of burping.

2. Rotten (busuk). When a segment of the fruit is rotten at a side, the whole segment usually has to be discarded.

3 "Cold" (dingin). The fruit hasn't been ripening on the tree. Durian fruits will still ripen after taken of the tree. This means: the flesh of the fruit will become soft and develop the right texture. But the fruit once of the tree, will no longer develop the typical strong durian taste.
Even if you are a durian expert yourself, you should, in Indonesia, always let the "tukang durian" do the choosing for you. The "tukang durian" is the salesman (yes, it's always a man; all other fruit are sold by women) who builds up a roadside stall, usually with a few chairs. Durians are different in different regions. Sometimes one can go by the smell of the closed fruit, but often one can't. And the tukang durian always has an edge over the buyer because he knows from which plantation, or even from which tree, his durians come from.

I have considerable experience with durians. If I have been at a durian place for some time, I develop a feeling on how to select a good fruit. But still, instead of taking over myself the responsibility that a particular fruit I chose appeals to my taste, I rather let the seller do the choosing. If I'm a regular customer, he won't want to lose me by letting me buy fruits of minor quality.

This durian fruit has been cut open in a typical manner to check whether it has a good taste and the right texture. It will later be closed again with the wooden spikes that can be seen on the photo.

In Indonesia it is common practice to let the customer taste the fruit he is offered to buy. For that purpose it is cut open at one segment (and if not bought, "nailed" closed again with matches). If the customer doesn't like a fruit that is offered, a new one will be chosen and opened in the same manner.

Opening a fruit for tasting is less common in Thailand. There is also less risk with Thai varieties that the taste of a particular fruit just isn't right.

In Thailand, one will often see a durian salesperson hitting a fruit to determine whether it is ripe or not. If the sound is hollow, or resembles knocking on wood, the fruit is not yet ripe. The sound should be low and full for a ripe fruit.

Smelling a fruit is unreliable. Some varieties will smell unopened when they are ready to be eaten, and for some other varieties, when they smell unopened, they are hopelessly overripe.
In Indonesia, the best bet is still to follow the advice of the "tukang durian", and if his choice should be lousy, buy somewhere else in the future.

Indonesian durians are seldom sold in shops. Usually, they are displayed on street-side racks. The salesperson is almost always a man, called "Tukang Durian".

In Indonesia, northern Sumatra is the best address for durians. For this assessment, I not only take into account the fact that durians are available year-round, but also the generally low price levels. Java has some durians, especially the area around Jepara, but prices in major cities of Java Island are usually around triple the prices of Medan, the main city on Sumatra. I have once traveled to Makassar after having been told that durians there cost on average less than half a dollar a fruit.

What disappointment, after I discovered that South Sulawesi durians are exceptionally small and also not the tastiest variety. I stayed in Makassar only for three days.

Cambodia doesn't have good durians. What is available has mostly been imported from Thailand.
But what you will find on the markets in Phnom Penh is the sorts of durian that cannot be sold in Thailand.

You'll find quality Thai durians in Singapore and Malaysia, though Malaysia also has its own durian produce.


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เขียนโดย everlastinglovesong เมื่อ 0 ความคิดเห็น ลิงก์ไปยังบทความนี้

MANGO FRUIT FACTS




MANGO

Mangifera indica L.

AnacardiaceaeCommon Names: Mango, Mangot, Manga, Mangou.

Related species: Bindjai (Mangifera caesia), Horse Mango (M. foetida), Kuweni mango (M. odorata).

Distant affinity: Cashew (Anacardium occidentale), Gandaria (Bouea gandaria), Pistachio (Pistacia vera), Marula (Sclerocarya birrea), Ambarella (Spondias cytherea), Yellow Mombin (Spondias mombin), Red Mombin (Spondias purpurea), Imbu (Spondias tuberosa).

Origin: The mango is native to southern Asia, especially Burma and eastern India. It spread early on to Malaya, eastern Asia and eastern Africa. Mangos were introduced to California (Santa Barbara) in 1880.

Forms: The mango exists in two races, one from India and the other from the Philippines and Southeast Asia. The Indian race is intolerant of humidity, has flushes of bright red new growth that are subject to mildew, and bears monoembryonic fruit of high color and regular form. The Philippine race tolerates excess moisture, has pale green or red new growth and resists mildew. Its polyembryonic fruit is pale green and elongated kidney-shaped. Philippines types from Mexico have proven to be the hardiest mangos in California.

Adaptation: Mangos basically require a frost-free climate. Flowers and small fruit can be killed if temperatures drop below 40° F, even for a short period. Young trees may be seriously damaged if the temperature drops below 30° F, but mature trees may withstand very short periods of temperatures as low as 25° F. The mango must have warm, dry weather to set fruit. In southern California the best locations are in the foothills, away from immediate marine influence. It is worth a trial in the warmest cove locations in the California Central Valley, but is more speculative in the coastal counties north of Santa Barbara, where only the most cold adapted varieties are likely to succeed. Mangos luxuriate in summer heat and resent cool summer fog. Wet, humid weather favors anthracnose and poor fruit set. Dwarf cultivars are suitable for culture in large containers or in a greenhouse.


DESCRIPTION

Growth Habit: Mango trees make handsome landscape specimens and shade trees. They are erect and fast growing with sufficient heat, and the canopy can be broad and rounded, or more upright, with a relatively slender crown. It is ultimately a large tree, to 65 ft., but usually half that size in California. The tree is long-lived with some specimens known to be over 300 years old and still fruiting. In deep soil the taproot descends to a depth of 20 ft, and the profuse, wide-spreading feeder roots also send down many anchor roots which penetrate for several feet.

Foliage: The leaves are dark green above and pale below, usually red while young. The midrib is pale and conspicuous and the many horizontal veins distinct. Full-grown leaves may be 4 to 12-1/2 in. long and 3/4 to 2 in. wide, and are generally borne in clusters separated by a length of naked stem bearing no buds. These naked stems mark successive flushes of growth. Each flush of growth will harden off to a rich green color before the next flush of growth begins.

Flowers: The yellowish or reddish flowers are borne in inflorescences which appear at branch terminals, in dense panicles of up to 2000 minute flowers. These flowers respire a volatile substance, causing allergic and respiratory problems for some persons. Pollinators are flies, hoverflies, rarely bees. Few of the flowers in each inflorescence are perfect, so most do not produce pollen and are incapable of producing fruit. Pollen cannot be shed in high humidity or rain. Fertilization is also ineffective when night temperatures are below 55° F. Mangos are monoecious and self-fertile, so a single tree will produce fruit without cross pollination. Polyembryonic types may not require pollination at all. Branches may be ringed to induce flowering, but the results are mixed.

Fruits: The fruits grow at the end of a long, stringlike stem (the former panicle), with sometimes two or more fruits to a stem. The fruits are 2 to 9 inches long and may be kidney shaped, ovate or (rarely) round. They range in size from 8 ounces to around 24 ounces. The flower scar at the apex is prominent, in some cultivars bulging from the fruit. The leathery skin is waxy and smooth, and when ripe entirely pale green or yellow marked with red, according to cultivar. It is inedible and contains a sap that is irritating to some people. The quality of the fruit is based on the scarcity of fiber and minimal turpentine taste.

The flesh of a mango is peachlike and juicy, with more or less numerous fibers radiating from the husk of the single large kidney-shaped seed. Fibers are more pronounced in fruits grown with hard water and chemical fertilizers. The flavor is pleasant and rich and high in sugars and acid. The seed may either have a single embryo, producing one seedling, or polyembryonic, producing several seedlings that are identical but not always true to the parent type. It is impossible to distinguish true-to-type from zygotic seedlings from the same fruit. Some seedlings produce numerous tiny, parthenocarpic fruits which fail to develop and abort. Mango trees tend to be alternate bearing.


CULTURE

Location: The mango grows to a good size and casts a dense shade, but the roots are not destructive. It requires full sun and perfect air drainage in winter. It does best at the top or middle level of a slope. A windbreak should be provided in exposed areas. The trees may also need staking. In the desert it needs the shade of other trees; or plant on the north side of the house. In the garden or near the coast, plant against a south wall, or in an area surrounded by paving, to provide maximum heat. In the greenhouse, full light and free air movement are important to avoid disease.

Soil: Mangos will grow in almost any well-drained soil whether sandy, loam or clay, but avoid heavy, wet soils. A pH between 5.5 and 7.5 is preferred. They are somewhat tolerant of alkalinity. For good growth, mangos needs a deep soil to accommodate their extensive root systems.

Irrigation: Irrigation should start when the weather warms: February in the desert, April at the coast. Continue every one to two weeks, more often in light soils, nearly continuously in the desert, until the fruit is harvested. Irrigation may be discontinued when rains are sufficient to maintain soil moisture. In the greenhouse keep watered until the fruit is harvested, then reduce to the minimum required to avoid wilting. Watering is then increased after one to two months to initiate a new bloom and growth cycle.

Fertilization: Mango trees require regular applications of nitrogen fertilizer to promote healthy growth flushes and flower production. Chelated micronutrients, especially iron, are also often necessary. A feeding program similar to one used for citrus is satisfactory, but do not fertilize after midsummer. Organic fertilizers perform best, since the trees are subject to fertilizer burn. Young trees are particularly sensitive to over-fertilizing, but respond well to fish emulsion. Sandy soils require more fertilizer than loam or clay.

Pruning: Healthy trees require little pruning, although pruning to stimulate new growth promotes uniform annual bearing. Removing some flower clusters during a heavy bloom year may also alleviate alternate bearing. Mangos may be pruned to control size in late winter or early spring without a loss of fruit. Sap and debris can cause severe dermatitis, similar to poison oak. It is best to avoid burning prunings or litter.

Frost Protection: During the first two years, the trees should be given some protection such as an overhead cover during any frost threat. Once the tree is 3 to 4 feet high, overhead protection is difficult but still worthwhile, especially if an unusual cold snap is predicted. Frost damage can also be avoided by erecting an overhead lath shelter, orchard heating, placing lights under the canopy, or using foam or straw trunk wraps. Do not prune dead parts until all frost danger is past.


Propagation:

Seedlings are a gamble. Supermarket fruits may have been treated to sterilize, or chilled too long to remain viable. These seeds are normally discolored gray. To grow mangos from seed, remove the husk and plant the seed (before it dries out) with the hump at soil level. The seeds normally germinate in two to four weeks, and do best with bottom heat. Multiple polyembryonic seedlings should be carefully separated as soon as they have sprouted so not to loose the cotyledons. Seedling mangos will bloom and bear in three to six years.

Some success at grafting can be obtained in April and September, but better luck is more likely during May through August. Small plants with a diameter of a pencil graft well with the common whip graft. On larger trees the crown groove bark graft allows several scions to be put on at once. Fully grown trees may be topworked by crown or groove bark graft, or prune hard and whip graft sprouts later. Plastic bagging with a few drops of moisture improves the graft's chances of being successful.

Graft in the second year, using cleft, side or tongue (splice) graft in midsummer. Scion and stock should be swelling for a new flush of growth. Grafts are most successful if the leaves are allowed to remain below the graft, but remove suckers. Use pencil-sized scions of hard wood with three or four nodes. Cover with loose punctured white paper bag for shade.

If top working, do not dehorn the entire tree at one time; leave at least two fully leafed branches intact. Marcottage is feasible in humid climates or greenhouses, but results in few plants. Although budding is rare in California; it can be done by using a shield bud in an inverted T, at the moment the tree begins a new growth flush. Cuttings are rarely successful, although experiments have shown that rooting may be improved by treating with ethylene, which destroys the root-inhibiting hormone in the cambium.

The Mango is a suitable and productive tree for growing in a container or greenhouse. Start with established plants of named cultivars. Select the finest Indian cultivars, which are most rewarding for the effort involved. A large tub is required, with casters for easy moving. In the greenhouse, the atmosphere should be kept dry as possible to avoid anthracnose. Place a fan nearby to move the air around trees and use ventilators. The plants should be hosed down in the morning on a weekly basis to control mites. A regular spraying of appropriate pesticides for anthracnose and mealybug may also be needed.

The location of the intended planting will dictate the choice of cultivars. Seedlings selected under California conditions have provided cultivars suitable for coastal counties. Florida cultivars are generally more suitable in the desert and Central Valley.

Pests and Diseases: Scale, mealybugs and mites are frequent pests in the greenhouse and orchard. In the greenhouse, thrips often turn leaves rusty brown. Malathion is the conventional spray for insect pests; sulfur works on mites. Gophers are attracted to the roots. The flower panicles, young fruit and leaves are subject to powdery mildew (Oidium mangiferae), especially in rainy weather or frequent fog. A spray of powdered kelp at bud break will often control it. Sodium bicarbonate and fungicide sprays are also effective. Trees planted in pavement openings seldom develop mildew.

Bacterial spot (Colletotrichum oleosporides) distorts and turns developing leaves black and disfigures developing fruit. Infection may spread to fresh young growth. Anthracnose can be controlled with bimonthly applications of copper spray or captan as a growth flush begins, and until the flowers open. Resume spraying when the fruits begin to form. Mango trees are very sensitive to root loss that can occur from digging, transplanting or gopher damage. "Soft nose," a physical disorder of shriveling at the fruit apex, seems associated with excessive nitrogen in soil. Exposed fruits sunburn in high temperatures.

Fruit Harvest: Mango fruit matures in 100 to 150 days after flowering. The fruit will have the best flavor if allowed to ripen on the tree, although winter-maturing fruits must be ripened indoors in coastal California. Ripening fruit turns the characteristic color of the variety and begins to soften to the touch, much like a peach. Commercial marketability requires 13% dissolved solids (sugars). When the first fruit shows color on tree, all of that size fruit or larger may be removed; repeat when remaining fruit colors. Do not store below 50° F.The fruit ripens best if placed stem end down in trays at room temperature and covered with a dampened cloth to avoid shriveling. Mangos ripen in June from January bloom in interior California, and October from April bloom on the coast. Less time is required to mature greenhouse fruit.

Commercial potential: The mango is the apple (or peach) of the tropics, and one of the most commonly eaten fruits in tropical countries around the world. The fruit is grown commercially on a small scale in Florida. In California a large planting in the Coachella Valley has now reached production stage. The quality of the fruit is generally comparable to Florida mangos, but has other advantages., i.e. the lack of fruit fly and seed weevil populations. Mexico, and to a lesser extent Central America, is a major supplier to U.S. markets today.

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เขียนโดย everlastinglovesong เมื่อ 0 ความคิดเห็น ลิงก์ไปยังบทความนี้

How To Grow Mango Trees From Seeds

Growing Mangoes

Mangifera indica

How To Grow Mango Trees From Seeds

I know more about growing mangoes than I'd like to. I live in a mango growing region... All my friends grow mango trees commercially!

Whether I like it or not, I do get suckered into helping out when extra hands are needed on deck...

Actually, it's not that bad. The reason so many people I know grow mangoes is that mango trees are extremely easy to grow and manage.

In the right climate growing mangoes takes no effort or attention at all.

Through my friends I can get all the mangoes I want for free, and then some. But I still grow mango in my own garden, about a dozen different varieties.

Mangoes come in different colours and sizes, have different flavours, and they ripen at slightly different times.

Growing different mango tree varieties keeps things interesting, but most importantly it stretches out the harvest time of this feast or famine fruit. You can eat fresh mango for a few months instead of only a few weeks!

What do mango trees look like?

The mango is a very attractive, evergreen tree with glossy, dense foliage. The new shoots are reddish, the mature leaves a dark green.

Depending on the variety mango trees can grow huge (to 35 m and 15 m across for seedling trees of older varieties). But you can keep a mango tree small by pruning it regularly.

A mango tree in full flower is a sight to behold. The large pink panicles are at the ends of the branches and cover the whole tree. Oh, and they smell good, too!

Where can you grow mangoes?

Mangoes are a strictly tropical fruit. They love the tropics. The best climate to grow mangoes is frost free, with cool, dry winters and steamy, hot summers.

Mangoes like growing in light and free draining soils, they don't need rich soil. You actually get the best crops on soils of somewhat lower fertility.

Getting started with growing mangoes

There are two ways to get started: you can buy mango trees at a nursery or you can grow your own from seed. The seed grown trees will take a lot longer to bear fruit. (Unless you know how to graft them or know someone who does.)

Mango trees that were grown in a nursery are usually grafted and should fruit within three to four years. Seedling trees may take five to eight years.

Seedling mango trees grow much bigger and stronger than the nursery trees and have an indestructible root system.

Grafted trees are of a more manageable size. Another advantage is that you know you will get a reliably bearing tree. If you grow mango from seed you need to know exactly which tree your mango seed came from or you won't know what you are getting until eight years later...

If you buy mango trees in a nursery I suggest you don't look just for size and colour. Have you ever tasted the variety you are about to buy? Some mangoes taste awful... True. Some of the commercial varieties are bred for shelf life, size and looks, but are barely edible. (Yes, I am totally spoiled when it comes to mangoes.) So, know the variety you buy!

Secondly, if you plan to grow more than one mango tree, find out if it is an early or late fruiting variety. Don't buy three trees that all fruit at the same time.

Thirdly, if you live in a cooler, subtropical area, make sure you get a variety that flowers well in those conditions. All mangoes will grow if your climate is frost free, but flowering habits depend on temperature and vary. And without flowers there will be little fruit...

And last but not least, especially if you live in an area where it may rain during the cooler time of the year, you should also look for a variety that shows good resistance to the mango disease anthracnose. (More on that below.)

If you buy your mango trees you can skip the next section:

Growing mango trees from seed

Growing mangoes from seed is actually quite easy. (All the seeds of the mangoes I eat, dry and freeze are thrown out in the garden as mulch, and they all grow...)
The most important step is the seed selection! If you take any old shop bought seed it may not grow true to type. The seed needs to come from what is called a "polyembrionic" variety.

What that means is that the seed will sprout several identical trees. And those seedling trees will be identical to the parent tree. They are clones.

Ideally you know the parent tree, it's from your area, grows really well and gets a bumper crop every year! If not, oh well. Get seed from a polyembrionic variety and at least you know that the fruit you harvest will taste the same.

(The most common commercial variety in Australia, the Kensington Pride—also known as Bowen-—is polyembrionic. It's also a vigorous tree and usually fruits reliably, so it is well suited for seed growing.If anyone knows a good variety to recommend to US readers, please let me know.)

The best time to grow mangoes from seed is the beginning of the wet season (beginning of summer).

Eat a nice mango, remove as much flesh from the seed as possible and then let it dry for a day or two.

To germinate the mango seed you could just put the whole thing in a warm, moist place and wait for it to sprout. Then cut off all the seedlings except for one. (The smallest supposedly gives you the best fruit.)

Or, if you prefer to fuss over them (or if you have only one seed but want half a dozen trees) then you can carefully cut a corner of the fibrous big seed. Cut only just deep enough so you can see the two halves of the seed, and then break it open.

Inside you find several small bean shaped seeds. Hopefully they are white and not all grey or brown and shrivelled...

You can plant those mango seeds individually. They should take about ten days to sprout. I like to sprout my seeds right where they are to grow. That way I don't need to worry about hardening them off (getting a shade grown seedling used to full sun) or about transplanting shock. If you are worried about the little thing getting eaten, uprooted or trampled you can always put a barrier around it.

If you prefer to first grow your mango tree in a pot, follow the instructions for nursery trees when it comes to planting time:

Planting a mango tree

You plant a mango tree just like you plant any other fruit tree, so I won't go into specifics here. (A page about planting fruit trees is coming soon.)

The best time to plant your mango tree is the beginning of the wet season (summer).

Make sure you select a place in full sun. (And make triple sure you really want a big tree there!)
The tree needs to be sun hardened. If your mango tree was grown in a shade house, gradually get it used to the sun first. Then dig a big enough hole. Carefully separate tree and pot without disturbing the roots. Put tree in hole, fill in, water.

Caring for a mango tree

I mentioned at the beginning that mangoes need little care. It's true.

Young mango trees do benefit from regular watering and a little fertilizing until they are established. But don't love your mango tree to death. Overwatering can kill it, especially if your soil is a bit heavy. And too much nitrogen fertilizer will make it weak and sappy, all leaves and little fruit, susceptible to bugs and diseases.

The older the tree gets, the less nitrogen it needs. Phosphorus and potassium are more important.

Mulch your mango tree heavily and spread a bit of compost every now and then. If your soil is reasonable that should be all the tree needs.

If the compost is made with wood ash, all the better. (Wood ash supplies potassium which will encourage fruiting and make the fruit taste better.) For mulch use only rough stuff like hay or lucerne, nothing that may mat down and become all soggy like grass clippings.

Fertilize mango trees in spring and summer only, and only a little at a time.

A good way of helping the tree is foliar spraying with fish fertilizer or seaweed solution. It provides trace elements and avoids deficiencies, but it doesn't overfeed.

But your best bet, even on very poor soil, is still lots of organic matter by way of compost and mulch.


When the tree is one metre high, cut it back by a third so it branches.

When those branches get to a metre, cut the tips off again.

That should give you a nice shaped tree.

Pruning a mango tree

Mangoes respond very well to pruning. And they are forgiving. Whatever you mess up, it will grow back...

Mangoes grow terminal flowers (they flower at the tip of a branch), so the more branches you have the better the crop. You can encourage lateral branching with tip pruning. (Only taking off the tips of branches.)

You should also aim for an open crown, taking out whole branches if the centre becomes too crowded, so that air and light can penetrate.

You can use pruning to keep your tree a manageable size and a nice shape. Mango tree growing too tall? Cut it down. Too wide? Cut it back.

Pruning mangoes is not a science. In fact, the commercial growers here hire a big, scary machine with a long arm with three huge rotating blades.

The machine drives along the rows and gives the trees a good hair cut so they all end up exactly the same height and width... You can do something similar by hand if you want to keep your tree a certain size.

Usually mango pruning is done after harvest, though in some cooler areas the preferred time is just before flowering.

Ideally you prune only a little bit every year. If you let a mango tree grow much too big first, and then cut it back to a third of its size, the tree will likely skip the next crop... (Cut it back to a stump and it will take two years or more. But amazingly they will grow back even from that!)

Having said all that, after the initial cuts to encourage branching as mentioned in the previous section, you don't HAVE to prune a mango tree. If you don't mind having a real big tree, mangoes grow and fruit very well without pruning!

Flowering, fruit set and harvesting mangoes

Mangoes flower profusely and self pollinate very well.

The flowering is triggered by cool nights. In the true tropics a severe cold snap will bring out masses of flowers. For us a severe cold snap is a night below 15°C. In years where it doesn't get so cold we end up with poor crops.

(But there are mango varieties that flower well even when it doesn't get so cold... That's why I grow a dozen different ones.)

In colder climates it can easily be too cold for mango flowers to be viable. Selecting cold hardier varieties is important for you. (Nam Doc Mai would be a suitable variety in Australia.)


Initially you may see masses of tiny mangoes on your flower panicles, but the tree will shed a lot of them and keep only what it can handle. So don't worry if you see a lot of them drop off.

The mangoes will grow bigger and plumper, and eventually they will start to change colour. How long that takes depends on your climate. The hotter the weather the faster the mangoes ripen.

Usually your mangoes will be ready by the beginning of the wet season (late spring/early summer).


If your mangoes get eaten (wild birds, bats, possums, the neighbour's kids...) you can pick them half green. They will ripen at room temperature. (Ha! My rooms are about 40°C at that time of the year... when they say room temperature they mean 18-22°C.)

Be careful when harvesting mangoes, don't get any of the sap on you. The sap can spurt from the fruit stem when it snaps off and can cause burns, allergies and dermatitis.



It also burns the skin of the mango, which will go rotten at that spot.
(Doesn't matter if you eat it straight away, but it does when you pick them half green.)



The best way to harvest mangoes is to cut them off with a long section of stem still attached, and to handle them carfully so that the stem does not snap off.


Mango pests and diseases

The most serious mango disease is anthracnose, a fungus that can cause the flowers to go black and fall off. It also causes black spots on stem and small fruit, leaves may go brown...

Some varieties are more susceptible to it then others and it's worse in wet weather. It is worst in areas where it rains during flowering and fruit set. In areas with dry winters anthracnose can often be seen only once the fruit ripens. It develops black patches that go rotten...

Unless you want to spray nasty stuff, like copper solution or fungicides, you may have to live with anthracnose and accept some losses. A healthy tree with strong cell walls will show less infections than a weak one. So keep piling on that compost and spraying that seaweed...

There are many newer mango varieties that show good resistance to anthracnose. Get one of those if you live in a climate with winter rains!

Any other mango pests and diseases, like fruit spotting bugs and borers and whatever else is around, should be kept in check if you have a diverse permaculture garden that encourages beneficial insects.

One more hint is to forsake neatness and leave your lower mango tree branches drooping onto the ground. When everything else has been stung, sucked and eaten, there are usually still mangoes hiding under there...


Can you grow mangoes indoors?

Nope. But you can grow mangoes in pots! So if it is just a little bit too cold in winter where you are, you can buy a dwarf variety and grow it in a tub and bring it inside during the coldest time of the year.

However, even a mango tree growing in a pot still needs lots and lots of heat and sun in summer. Growing mangoes indoors won't do!

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เขียนโดย everlastinglovesong เมื่อ 0 ความคิดเห็น ลิงก์ไปยังบทความนี้

How to Grow Fruits and Berries


How to Grow Fruits and Berries


Dwarf rootstocks limit the size of fruit trees, making it easier to grow them in a small garden.

You don't have to own a large estate to grow a wide variety of fruits at home. If you don't have space for full-sized trees, you can plant dwarf forms of apples, pears and other fruits. Or try pruning and training trees on a trellis in the time-honored technique known as espalier. Grow a grapevine over an arbor or pergola. Plant lowbush blueberries or strawberries in a bed near the house. Even container growing is possible, giving northern gardeners a chance to grow citrus, figs and other frost-tender fruit trees.


Fruit trees are somewhat fussy about where they're planted. If you were planting a large commercial orchard, site selection would be critical. But for a small home orchard, your best bet is to take a handful of variables into account, select the most promising site on your property, and then plant a couple of trees and give it a try.



Site Section


Soil: Fruit trees don't like wet feet, so well-drained, loamy soil is a must. They should be located where there is good air circulation so their leaves will dry quickly, since moisture helps spread disease.

Frost: Flower buds can be easily killed by late spring frosts, so avoid siting your orchard in a frost pocket. Cold air flows downhill, making flowering fruit trees located at the bottom of a slope especially vulnerable to frost. Mid-slope is the best location, because winds are most severe at the top.

Slope direction: Which direction the slope should face is not always clear. Southern and southwestern slopes can be hot and dry, and can cause trees to break dormancy too early, which makes them susceptible to damage from late frosts. Yet a southern slope can work well if it is protected from the prevailing winds by a windbreak on any side except the downslope one (which would block air circulation). A northerly slope may not provide enough solar exposure to evaporate moisture and promote good fruiting. In humid regions, easterly slopes can speed drying of the morning dew.

Sun: Fruit trees need a lot of sun to grow healthy and be productive. If they are shaded by other trees or a building they will be less fruitful and more prone to insects and -disease.



Selecting Plants


It pays to seek out trees and shrubs that have some natural resistance to disease. In apples and pears the common diseases include scab and fire blight. With other fruits, such as raspberries, make sure you buy from a nursery that propagates from virus-free plants. Selecting disease-resistant plants doesn't mean that you will never experience any disease problems, but it greatly improves your chances for success.


Another crucial issue is hardiness. To make sure that the plants you purchase won't be damaged over the winter, check hardiness information before you buy. Also consider bloom time. Many fruits flower very early in the spring. If your area is prone to late frosts, such early bloomers may survive, but they will never truly thrive or reliably set fruit. To grow these plants in a marginal area, you’ll have to plant them in an especially favorable and protected site. Buying Plants: Locally or by Mail?


Local nurseries usually sell trees in containers or with the root mass wrapped in burlap. Mail-order nurseries usually sell trees as "bareroot stock," which means that they are shipped to you in a dormant state with their roots packed in damp wood shavings.


The choice of where to buy is up to you: mail-order nurseries tend to offer more varieties than garden centers, so if you are looking for a particular cultivar or want a broad selection you should start with them. However, if you're unsure about which variety to buy, a local nursery will carry plants that will thrive in your growing area.


If you buy bareroot plants by mail, you will need to plant them in early spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, while the plants are still dormant and the water table is high. This spring planting gives the young plants a full growing season to get established before the onset of freezing weather in the fall. Trees and shrubs sold in containers by local nurseries are more forgiving in terms of planting time; they can be successfully transplanted in most areas either in the spring or early fall.


Most fruit trees will be sold as grafted stock. This means that the tree consists of at least two sections. The top part is called the scion, and is a branch cutting that has been taken from the variety of fruit you want to grow. The bottom part is the rootstock, and it is usually selected either for hardiness or the ultimate height and size of the tree. Standard rootstocks result in trees of full size (to 15 feet or more). Dwarf rootstocks limit the size of mature trees to 6 to 8 feet or so. Semi-dwarfing rootstocks produce mature trees somewhere in between the two extremes.

Dwarf fruit trees result in space-efficient plants that begin bearing fruit quickly, usually two to three years after planting. There are, however, a few disadvantages to growing dwarf trees. They have a shorter life expectancy than standard-sized trees—about 10 to 20 years on average. Because of their limited root systems, dwarf trees don't compete well with grasses and other plants, so you'll have to keep the area around them weeded and well mulched. Also, most true dwarfs are not suitable for regions in Zone 4 and colder. But for gardeners concerned with space limitations, or who live in relatively mild climates, dwarfs can be the ideal choice.


How to Plant a Fruit Tree


1. If you've ordered bareroot nursery stock, soak the plant roots in water or manure tea up to 24 hours before planting. If you can't plant within a few days after receiving the shipment, repack the plant in the damp sawdust or wood shavings it came in and store it in a cold, dark location until the ground can be worked. Never expose the bare roots of plants to wind or sun.


2. Using a sharp, square-ended planting spade, dig a circle 2 feet in diameter and about 3 feet deep. Remove the sod and set it aside. Now separate the topsoil and the lighter-colored subsoil into two piles, and remove any rocks from the planting hole.


3. Chop up the sod and put the pieces in the hole, grass side down, so that it doesn't come in contact with the tree roots. Cover the sod with a little topsoil.


4. Set the tree into the hole. For grafted trees grown on standard rootstocks, position the tree so that the graft union, the point at which the scion and the rootstock were joined together, is 1 to 2 inches below the surface of the ground. For dwarf and semidwarf rootstocks, the graft union should be 2 to 3 inches above the soil surface.


5. Fill in around the roots, using the topsoil first. Use your hands to firm the soil around the roots and eliminate any air pockets. Fill in about half the planting hole.


6. Pour water into the planting hole until the soil gets quite mucky. Then, using your foot, tamp down the soil.


7. Fill in the rest of the planting hole with the remaining topsoil and subsoil. Firm down the soil around the tree and make a "dish" or depression to encourage water to drain toward the tree.


8. Mulch around the tree with organic matter (leaves, compost, grass clippings, etc.). Don't use fresh manure, though well-rotted manure is fine. Line the mulch in the same dish shape around the tree.


9. Water the tree until the soil cannot readily absorb any more.


10. Drive one or two stakes into the ground outside the root zone to mark the tree. Fruit trees grafted to dwarf rootstocks develop smaller root systems than standard-size trees and require some support. After planting dwarf trees, attach the tree to the stake using some -flexible tubing or other material.


11. Prune off any side branches and cut back trees by about one-third after planting. Balled or container trees do not need to be pruned.


12. Place wire-mesh "hardware cloth" or a plastic tree guard around the tree trunk to protect it from rodents and deer.


13. Post-Planting. During the first growing season, water the tree regularly, giving it 5 to 10 gallons per day for the first month or so, then watering two or three times a week for another couple of months, or during dry weather. In the late fall, paint the tree bark with white latex paint diluted with water, so the bark will reflect winter sunlight and not be damages by sunscald or cracking.



Pollination


Many varieties of fruit trees and shrubs are self-fruitful: that is, they do not need to have a plant of another variety nearby with which to cross-pollinate. Other varieties (particularly those of fruits) need to have a partner in the orchard so that they will be pollinated and produce a good crop of fruit. In fact, even self-fruitful varieties often benefit from having a different variety of the same plant located nearby.


Cross-pollination doesn't mean that you will end up with weird-looking hybrid fruits. For example, a 'Cortland' apple tree will always produce 'Cortland' apples, even if its blossoms are visited by bees who carry pollen from another variety of apple or crabapple that is growing nearby. However, if you planted the seeds from that 'Cortland' apple, you would probably grow a tree that bore an entirely different kind of apple, one that was not "true to type."


Commercial orchards often rent honeybee hives to ensure good pollination during blossom time. Fortunately, there are also wild bees that do the same job. For example, the orchard mason bee (Osmia lignaria) is a good pollinator, and is found throughout most of the United States, with the exception of the Deep South.


It's very important never to spray insecticides during the blossom time of either the fruit trees or the other groundcover plants (dandelions, clovers, etc.) that may be growing near them. These toxic chemicals can kill bees and other beneficial insects. Read on for more information on nonchemical methods of pest control. Nursery catalogs and books usually provide good information on which varieties of plants need pollinators and which will produce fruit even if planted alone.



Orchard Maintenance


Cleanup: Maintaining a clean orchard means picking up after your trees. Fruit that drops to the ground can contain insect larvae, which burrow into the soil where they overwinter, to reemerge in the spring. These drops also attract voles and mice, which can damage trees by chewing on the bark. Pick up the dropped fruit and burn or bury it underground far away from your trees. Pick up the fruit as soon as possible after it drops to catch the larvae before they burrow into the ground. It's especially important to collect the spring drops, which are still quite small but can contain a large number of larvae.


While you're picking up dropped fruit in the fall, also clean up fallen leaves, which can likewise harbor disease and insects. Removing apple leaves within 200 yards of your apple trees will reduce the number of scab spores the following spring.


Pruning: Pruning is a subject unto itself. Certainly you will want to learn the basics and practice selective pruning of your fruit trees and shrubs on a yearly basis, removing crossing branches, suckers and watersprouts; opening up and reinvigorating older plants; and allowing good air circulation to prevent disease.


Insect and disease control: If you follow good cultural practices and select disease-free trees and shrubs, you should be able to keep most common orchard pests and diseases in check without the use of chemicals. But to grow fruit organically, you will need to tolerate some degree of pest and disease damage. If you were to prevent all insect and disease damage, you would need an arsenal of toxic sprays—something no one wants to use around the home landscape.


One strategy is to attract beneficial insect predators to your orchard by planting wildflowers and herbs, including dill, buckwheat, tansy, yarrow and goldenrod. Another way to reduce certain kinds of insect damage is to trap pests using simple, visual lures. These traps mimic the way leaves or fruits appear to insects. For example, the apple maggot fly can be lured by hanging in the tree small, dark red spheres that are covered with a sticky substance called Tangletrap. Female flies get stuck as they jump from fruit to fruit, and then die.


There are also many biological sprays that can be used in the orchard at key times to disrupt insect cycles. Dormant oil spray, Bordeaux mixture and other natural products are relatively nontoxic to beneficial insects and to humans when used judiciously and according to the manufacturer’s instructions.


Simple physical barriers serve to keep many animal pests from damaging trees and fruit. These range from wire mesh or plastic tree guards set around young trees to protect them from mice and rabbits, to smelly soap hung on branches or tall fences erected around the orchard to discourage deer.


By combining preventive measures with the least toxic controls, you can have a healthy orchard and still harvest lots of good-quality fruit for eating. Backyard Berries


Berries and other so-called small fruits generally don't require as much space as full-size trees, and growing several different types can extend your harvest from early summer through the end of the growing season.


Keep in mind, though, that the "small" in small fruits refers to the size of the fruit, not the plant. A full-size highbush blueberry may grow 12 feet tall and 6 feet wide—hardly appropriate for a patio. If you have limited space, a half-high cultivar like 'Northsky' or one of the lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) might be a better choice.


Much of the preceding information in this article relates to berries as well as to tree fruits. Buy from a local nursery or a regional mail-order supplier, and purchase plants that are disease-free and reliably winter-hardy in your growing zone. In most areas of North America, planting in early spring is recommended, whether you've purchased dormant bareroot stock or a plant that's growing in a container.


Also when selecting plants, be sure to check whether the type of fruit you're growing is self-fruitful or whether you need to plant two different varieties of the same fruit. Muscadine grapes, kiwis (Actinidia spp.) and most varieties of blueberries require two compatible varieties for successful pollination. In addition, kiwi plants are either male or female, so (as with hollies or ginkgos) you will need to plant at least one of each sex to ensure fruit set.


The ideal site and soil conditions will vary depending on the type of fruit. In many cases, these plants aren't fussy and will grow just fine in an average, well-drained garden soil. However, it's important to check the nursery catalog or a good book on berries before planting to make sure your conditions are suitable.


Blueberries, lingonberries and other members of the genus Vaccinium require an acid soil (pH 4.5 to 5.5) to grow well. If your soil is not that acidic, you can amend it organically a year or so in advance by digging lots of peat moss and pine needles into the planting site. Once the soil is acidic enough, plant the blueberries and maintain soil acidity by mulching heavily every year with pine needles and shredded oak leaves. If you want to lower your soil pH more rapidly, you can apply a fertilizer that’s formulated for azaleas, hollies and other acid-loving shrubs, or sprinkle some aluminum sulphate onto the soil before planting.


Raspberries, blackberries, and dewberries (Rubus spp.) are also known as brambles, and they are among the easiest and most popular backyard fruits. They all have perennial roots that send up biennial shoots, or canes. In the first year of growth, these canes are vegetative; in the second year they bear fruit, then die. But at the same time the plant is producing new vegetative canes, which will bear next year’s fruit.


To lessen the chances of disease, avoid growing raspberries on ground that has recently been growing a member of the Nightshade Family (tomatoes, peppers, potatoes, eggplant), or where some other tree fruits or wild brambles have grown before. For the same reason, locate raspberries at least 500 yards away from any wild brambles.


Raspberries and other cane fruits have shallow root systems, so it’s important to remove any weeds that will compete with them for nutrients. The most common way of growing raspberries is in rows spaced 6 to 12 feet apart. This spacing allows you to cultivate the rows with a rototiller, but also permits easy access from both sides and ensures good air circulation around the plants.
Consider planting a number of different varieties to ensure a continuous harvest of berries from early summer through late fall. A well-tended raspberry patch will produce for ten years or more before the plants start to decline.


It's impossible to give even sketchy instructions for all of the small fruits. There are just too many wonderful choices, and each one has its own place in the backyard landscape. From strawberries and rhubarb, which are often grown in the vegetable garden, to vines like grapes and kiwis, which can be trained along a wire support or over a trellis or pergola, at least one type of small fruit is sure to be just right for your garden.


And don't forget the ornamental possibilities of many lesser-grown fruits, such as the spicy-scented clove currant (Ribes odoratum) and the beautiful American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana).


Citrus and other tender fruits: For gardeners who want to grow something a little different, various kinds of citrus fruits can make a wonderful addition to the home or garden, especially when grown in containers.


With few exceptions, citrus fruits are hardy only to around 20 degrees F, so growing them outdoors year-round is not an option for people who live in areas colder than Zone 9. Fortunately, several kinds of citrus make good container plants, particularly the dwarf varieties, many of which are highly ornamental and ever-blooming.


Good examples include dwarf sour oranges like 'Chinotto' and 'Bouquet des Fleurs' (7 to 8 feet at maturity), and the popular and hardy 'Meyer' lemon (which grows to about 6 feet); 'Meyer' bears fragrant, thin-skinned, good-tasting lemons. Lesser-known citrus relatives like the kumquat and the calamondin also make beautiful plants, bearing lots of small fruits that can be used in marmalades and other preserves.


Citrus fruits like growing in well-drained soil (regular potting soil is fine for containers). They need regular watering and, during the outdoor growing season, biweekly foliar feeding with a complete liquid fertilizer, one that contains the micronutrients zinc, manganese, and iron.


When you bring containers indoors or outdoors at the change of seasons, try to move the plants gradually to acclimate them to their new growing conditions. Once inside the house, it's good to mist the plants or to set them on trays of watered pebbles to raise the humidity level. Watch for pests such as scale and mealybugs. When moving citrus trees outdoors, pick a sunny, protected spot, and paint any exposed areas of trunk with a white latex paint diluted with water, to prevent sunscald.


Other tropical or exotic fruits can be grown indoors, in containers or in a greenhouse. The shorter varieties of bananas like 'Dwarf Orinoco', make great container plants. They do, however, require uniform temperatures (above 60°F), and may need to grow for 20 or 30 months after planting before they will start flowering.


Figs seem like an exotic fruit, but several varieties are quite hardy and fairly easy to grow, even as far north as Zone 5. The secret is to pick a cold-hardy type like the popular 'Brown Turkey' or 'Celeste', then plant it in a warm, sunny location – for instance, trellised on a south-facing masonry wall. Gardeners in Zones 5–7 will need to provide winter protection. One way is to grow the fig tree in a large tub or container, moving it inside in the fall or early winter, before temperatures dip to 10°F. Fresh figs are wonderful for table use or preserving, and varieties like 'Brown Turkey' are everbearing.




Pollination Tips


Apples: Crabapples will cross-pollinate with apples, and in fact are often grown near apple trees for just that purpose.


Pears: Most varieties of pears need to be cross-pollinated with a different variety. Two popular varieties, 'Seckel' and 'Bartlett', will not pollinate one another.


Raspberries: Raspberries are self-fruitful and do not require another variety for good pollination.
Blueberries: Even though blueberries are self-fruitful, the size of the berries and the size of the crop will be improved by planting more than one variety.


Cherries: Sweet cherries and sour (pie) cherries are different species, rarely bloom at the same time, and will not cross-pollinate with one another. Unless you purchase a self-fruitful variety ('Montmorency', 'Star Stella', etc.) each type of cherry will need another pollinator from its own species.


Plums: Relatively few varieties of plums are self-fertile ('Mt. Royal', 'Stanley', etc.), so you'll need to plant at least two different varieties that can cross-pollinate. There are European plums, Japanese plums, American native plums, and a whole host of hybrids. Consult catalog descriptions to determine whether the varieties you want to grow will pollinate one another.


Peaches, nectarines, and apricots: Most varieties are self-fertile and do not require another pollinator.


Citrus fruits: Most citrus fruits are self-pollinating, and some varieties will even set fruit without pollination (such fruits are seedless).


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How to Grow Radish

Radish is a cool-season, fast-maturing, easy-to-grow vegetable. Garden radishes can be grown wherever there is sun and moist, fertile soil, even on the smallest city lot. Early varieties usually grow best in the cool days of early spring, but some later-maturing varieties can be planted for summer use. The variety French Breakfast holds up and grows better than most early types in summer heat if water is supplied regularly. Additional sowings of spring types can begin in late summer, to mature in the cooler, more moist days of fall. Winter radishes are sown in midsummer to late summer, much as fall turnips. They are slower to develop than spring radishes; and they grow considerably larger, remain crisp longer, are usually more pungent and hold in the ground or store longer than spring varieties.

Recommended Varieties

Spring

Burpee White (25 days to harvest; round; smooth white skin)
Champion (28 days, large, round, red)
Cherry Belle (22 days, round, red)
Cherry Queen Hybrid (24 days, deep red, round, slow to become pithy)
Early Scarlet Globe (23 days; globe-shaped, small taproot, bright red)
Easter Egg (25 days; large, oval; color mix includes reddish purple, lavender, pink, rose, scarlet, white)
Fuego (25 days; round, red; medium tops; resistant to fusarium, tolerant to blackroot/black scurf)
Plum Purple (25 days, rounded, large, deep magenta)
Snow Belle (30 days, attractive, round, white, smooth)

For Spring or Summer Use

French Breakfast (23 days, oblong red with white tip)
Icicle (25 days, long, slim, tapered white)

Winter (for storage)

China Rose (52 days, white)
Chinese White (60 days; large, long, square-shouldered, blunt-tipped, creamy white roots)
Round Black Spanish (55 days; rough, black skin, white flesh)
Tama Hybrid (70 days; daikon type; roots as long as 18 inches, with 3 inch diameter; smooth, white; blunt tip)

When to Plant

Spring radishes should be planted from as early as the soil can be worked until mid-spring. Make successive plantings of short rows every 10 to 14 days. Plant in spaces between slow-maturing vegetables (such as broccoli and brussels sprouts) or in areas that will be used later for warm-season crops (peppers, tomatoes and squash). Spring radishes also can be planted in late winter in a protected cold frame, window box or container in the house or on the patio. Later-maturing varieties of radishes (Icicle or French Breakfast ) usually withstand heat better than the early maturing varieties and are recommended for late-spring planting for summer harvest. Winter radishes require a much longer time to mature than spring radishes and are planted at the same time as late turnips (usually midsummer to late summer).

Spacing & Depth

Sow seed 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep. Thin spring varieties to 1/2 to 1 inch between plants. Winter radishes must be thinned to 2 to 4 inches, or even farther apart to allow for proper development of their larger roots. On beds, radishes may be broadcast lightly and thinned to stand 2 to 3 inches apart in all directions.

Care

Radishes grow well in almost any soil that is prepared well, is fertilized before planting and has adequate moisture maintained. Slow development makes radishes hot in taste and woody in texture.

Radishes mature rapidly under favorable conditions and should be checked often for approaching maturity. Harvest should begin as soon as roots reach edible size and should be completed quickly, before heat, pithiness or seedstalks can begin to develop.

Harvesting

Pull radishes when they are of usable size (usually staring when roots are less than 1 inch in diameter) and relatively young. Radishes remain in edible condition for only a short time before they become pithy (spongy) and hot. Proper thinning focuses the harvest and avoids disappointing stragglers that have taken too long to develop.

Winter varieties mature more slowly and should be harvested at considerably larger size. Once they reach maturity, they maintain high quality for a fairly long time in the garden, especially in cool fall weather. Size continues to increase under favorable fall conditions. Daikon or Chinese radish, can achieve particularly large size and still maintain excellent quality. Winter radishes can be pulled before the ground freezes and stored in moist cold storage for up to several months.
Common Problems

Root maggots may tunnel into radishes. These insects are more common above 40 degrees north latitude. Apply a suggested soil insecticide before planting if this insect previously has been a problem.

Questions & Answers

Q. What causes my radishes to crack and split?
A. The radishes are too old. Pull them when they are younger and smaller. A flush of moisture after a period of relative dryness also may cause mature roots to burst and split. Try to avoid uneven moisture availability.

Q. Why do my radishes grow all tops with no root development?
A. There may be several reasons: seed planted too thickly and plants not thinned (though some roots along the outside of the row usually develop fairly well even under extreme crowding), weather too hot for the spring varieties that do best in cool temperatures (planted too late or unseasonable weather) and too much shade (must be really severe to completely discourage root enlargement).

Q. What causes my radishes to be too "hot"?
A. The "hotness" of radishes results from the length of time they have grown rather than from their size. The radishes either grew too slowly or are too old.
Selection & Storage

Summer Radish

Radishes have often been dismissed as decoration and garnish. They are actually members of the cruciferous vegetable family so eat the greens. Because they vary in keeping quality, radishes are classified as winter or summer. Summer radishes are the small ones of bold red, pink, purple, white or red and white. They may be globe-shaped or elongated, fiery hot or mild.

Harvest summer radishes when they are small and tender for optimal flavor. Oversize summer radishes can become tough, woody, hallow and strong in flavor. To check a large radish squeeze gently, if it yields to pressure it is likely to be fibrous. These will do well in the compost heap.

Winter Radish

Harvest winter radishes when they are large and mature. Winter radishes may be white, black or green. Black radishes have a pungent flavor and should be used sparingly. Remove greens and roots before storing black radishes. Chinese radishes, round and fat, are milder in flavor. Remove greens before storing; remove roots just before preparing.

The word daikon means "great root" in Japanese. In cool weather, daikon growth is quick and steady. The fully mature daikon can grow up to about 18 inches long and weighs 5 or 6 pounds. There are several varieties. Some are thin and long, while others are short and round. All radish greens are edible.


Storage
Save the young thinnings of both summer and winter radishes. They are delicious with tops and bottoms intact. Both summer and winter radishes store well in the refrigerator once the tops have been removed. The radish leaves cause moisture and nutrient loss during storage. Store greens separately for 2-3 days. Refrigerate radishes wrapped in plastic bags for 5 to 7 days. Winter radish varieties can be stored for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

The popular red globe radish is low in calories with an abundance of flavor and crunch. A 1/2 cup serving (about 12 medium) of sliced radishes provides a goodly amount of potassium, vitamin C, folate and fiber. Winter radishes such as daikons are similar in nutrients.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup fresh sliced raw red globes)

Calories 12Protein 0.35 grams
Carbohydrates 2.0 grams
Dietary Fiber 1 gram
Potassium 134.56 mg
Folate 15.66 mcg

Preparation & Serving

Summer and winter radishes are most often eaten raw. Use a stiff vegetable brush and scrub radishes under cold running water. Do not peel summer or black radishes. Pare away the top and root end then slice, dice, shred, or serve whole. Large Chinese and Japanese varieties hold up well during cooking. They can be eaten raw, preserved or substituted in any recipe calling for turnips.

Daikon radishes are thought to aid in digestion, especially the digestion of fatty foods. It is a common ingredient in Japanese cooking and is always grated and added to tempura dipping sauce. Young daikons can be eaten raw but the larger (more than 8 inches long) ones must be cooked. Always peel daikons. Cut up and simmered in stews and soups, daikon tastes light and refreshing rather than heavy or starchy. Daikons are often cut into paper-thin slices by talented Japanese chefs.

Daikon greens are delicious too. They can be washed, stacked, rolled into a scroll, and cut crosswise. This produces thin julienne strips which are traditionally salted and left standing for an hour. The moisture is squeezed out. The leaves are then chopped and stored in glass jars for up to a week in the refrigerator. The Japanese stir them into warm rice, they can also be added to soups and other recipes.

Home Preservation

Due to the high water content, summer radishes do not freeze well and they are not recommended for drying. They become limp, waterlogged and develop oxidized color, aroma and flavor upon thawing. Summer and winter radishes are best pickled. Although the Japanese have a procedure for drying daikon shavings, which are added to many different recipes.

Pickled Daikon and Carrots

This is a refrigerator pickle, allow it to chill overnight before serving. Store for up to 4 weeks. Red globe radishes may be substituted for daikons in this recipe.

1/2 pound daikon or other white radish
1 carrot shredded
1 tablespoon canning salt
1 cup water
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1. Wash, peel and shred radishes if using daikon. Do not peel red globe radishes before shredding. Put vegetables in a bowl, sprinkle on the salt and mix well. Let stand for 30 minutes.

2. Drain off water and squeeze vegetables as dry as possible.

3. In a small bowl combine vinegar, sugar and pepper flakes.

4. Place in a clean quart-size jar and refrigerate overnight or 6-8 hours. Serves 6.

Recipes

Summer and winter radishes can add refreshing crispiness to salads and sandwiches. They make a delicious topping for bagels. Use them as hors d'oeuvres, snack on them, or add winter radishes to liven up many different recipes.

Open-faced Radish Sandwiches

4 bagels cut in half or
8 slices black bread
8 ounces low-fat cream cheese
6 small globe radishessalt and freshly ground pepper

1. Spread bagels or bread slices with 1/4 inch cream cheese.

2. Using s sharp knife or mandolin, slice radishes very thin. Overlap radish slices on top of the cream cheese. Sprinkle each sandwich with salt and pepper. Cover with damp paper towels until serving.

Radish Confetti Salad

4 large radishes, washed and trimmed
1 medium carrot, trimmed
1 celery stalk, trimmed Six to eight chives, cut into one-inch pieces salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup sweet rice vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 teaspoon celery seed
6 romaine lettuce leaves

1. Using a mandolin or box grater, shred the radishes and carrots.

2. Cut the celery into matchstick-size pieces. Toss the vegetables together in a medium bowl.
3. In a small bowl whisk together olive oil, vinegar, celery seed and salt and pepper. Pour over vegetables and toss. Serve on a bed of romaine lettuce.

Radishes with Pasta and Radish Greens

24 radishes, sliced (about 2 cups) with green tops
2 tablespoons olive oil1 medium onion, chopped
12-ounce package short pasta such as penne or shells, cooked
1/4 cup cooking water from pasta
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan or Romano cheeseSalt and pepper

Separate the greens from the radishes. Wash greens in several changes of cool water. Drain or spin dry in a salad spinner. Wash and trim radishes. Thinly slice radishes.

Heat oil in a large skillet or wok. Add onions and cook just until they begin to soften. Add radish slices and greens. Cover and cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until greens wilt and radishes look almost translucent. Remove from heat. Season with salt and pepper. Taste. Adjust seasoning.

Add drained pasta to skillet and toss. Add cooking liquid from pasta and stir. Sprinkle on the cheese and toss. Pass additional cheese if desired.

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How to Grow Broccoli

Broccoli is a hardy vegetable of the cabbage family that is high in vitamins A and D. It develops best during cool seasons of the year.

When broccoli plants of most varieties are properly grown and harvested, they can yield over an extended period. Side heads develop after the large, central head is removed. Two crops per year (spring and fall) may be grown in most parts of the country. New heat tolerant varieties allow broccoli to be produced in all but the hottest parts of the season.

Transplants are recommended to give the best start for spring planting, because transplanting gets the plants established more quickly. Thus they can bear their crop with minimal interference from the extreme heat of early summer. Fall crops may be direct-seeded in the garden if space allows or may be started in flats to replace early crops when their harvest ends.

Recommended Varieties

Cruiser (58 days to harvest; uniform, high yield; tolerant of dry conditions)

Green Comet (55 days; early; heat tolerant)

Green Goliath (60 days; spring, summer or fall; tolerant of extremes)

When to Plant

Transplant young, vigorously growing plants in early spring. Plants that remain too long in seed flats may produce "button" heads soon after planting. For fall crops, buy or grow your own transplants or plant seeds directly in the garden. For fall planting, start seedlings in midsummer for transplanting into the garden in late summer. To determine the best time for setting your fall transplants, count backward from the first fall frost in your area and add about 10 to the days to harvest from transplants. Remember that time from seed to transplant is not included in this figure.

Spacing & Depth

Plant seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep, or set transplants slightly deeper than they were grown originally. Plant or thin seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart in the row and allow 36 inches between rows. Broccoli plants grow upright, often reaching a height of 2 1/2 feet. Space plants one foot apart in all directions in beds.

Care

Use starter fertilizer for transplants and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the plants are half grown. Provide ample soil moisture, especially as the heads develop.

Harvesting

The edible part of broccoli are compact clusters of unopened flower buds and the attached portion of stem. The green buds develop first in one large central head and later in several smaller side shoots. Cut the central head with 5 to 6 inches of stem, after the head is fully developed, but before it begins to loosen and separate and the individual flowers start to open (show bright yellow). Removing the central head stimulates the side shoots to develop for later pickings. These side shoots grow from the axils of the lower leaves. You usually can continue to harvest broccoli for several weeks.

Common Problems

Aphids — Watch for buildup of colonies of aphids on the undersides of the leaves.
For more information on aphids,
see our feature in the Bug Review.

Cabbage worms — Three species of cabbage worms (imported cabbage worms, cabbage loopers and diamond back moth worms) commonly attack the leaves and heads of cabbage and related cole crops. Imported cabbage worms are velvety green caterpillars. The moth is white and commonly is seen during the day hovering over plants in the garden. Cabbage loopers ("measuring worms") are smooth, light green caterpillars. The cabbage looper crawls by doubling up (to form a loop) and then moving the front of its body forward. The moth is brown and is most active at night. Diamondback worms are small, pale, green caterpillars that are pointed on both ends. The moth is gray, with diamond-shaped markings when the wings are closed. The damage caused by diamondback larvae looks like shot holes in the leaf.

The larval or worm stages of these insects cause damage by eating holes in the leaves and cabbage head. The adult moths or butterflies lay their eggs on the leaves but otherwise do not damage the plants. The worms are not easy to see because they are fairly small and blend with the cabbage leaves. Cabbage worms are quite destructive and can ruin the crop if not controlled. They are even worse in fall plantings than in spring gardens because the population has had several months to increase. About the time of the first frost in the fall, moth and caterpillar numbers finally begin to decline drastically.

For more information on cabbage worms, see our feature in the Bug Review.

Questions & Answers

Q. How large should the central head of broccoli grow before cutting?

A. Harvest the central head when the individual florets begin to enlarge and develop and before flowering begins. Size varies with variety, growing conditions and season of growth; but central heads should grow to be 4 to 6 inches in diameter, or even larger. Late side shoots may reach only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

Q. What causes small plants, poor heading and early flowering?

A. Yellow flowers may appear before the heads are ready to harvest during periods of high temperatures. Planting too late in the spring or failing to give the plants a good start contributes to this condition. Premature flower development also may be caused by interrupted growth resulting from extended chilling of young plants, extremely early planting, holding plants in a garden center until they are too old or too dry, and severe drought conditions. Small heads that form soon after plants are set in the garden are called "buttons" and usually result from mistreated seedlings being held too long or improperly before sale or planting. Applying a starter fertilizer at transplanting gets the plants off to a good start but cannot correct all the difficulties mentioned.

Selection & Storage

Since broccoli grows best in cool weather, your garden plan should produce a fall and spring harvest. The large central head is the spring harvest and smaller side shoots will be ready in the fall. Harvest when the head is large and firm, with a compact cluster of small flower buds with none open enough to show bright yellow flowers. Look for bright green or purplish-green heads. Yellow flowers and enlarged buds are signs of over-maturity.

Store the broccoli, unwashed, in loose or perforated plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator. Broccoli left unrefrigerated quickly becomes fibrous and woody. Wet broccoli quickly becomes limp and moldy in the refrigerator—so wash it just before using. Store fresh broccoli in the refrigerator for 3-5 days. Old broccoli may look fine, but it develops strong undesirable flavors. It tastes best and is highest in nutritional value when storage time is brief.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

A member of the cabbage family and a close relative of cauliflower, broccoli packs more nutrients than any other vegetable. Broccoli contains large amounts of vitamin C and beta carotene which are important antioxidants. In the United States, broccoli has become the most favored cruciferous vegetable (cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, and all forms of cabbage). Researchers have concluded that broccoli and other cruciferous vegetables should be included in the diet several times a week. Consuming foods high in antioxidants can reduce the risk of some forms of cancer and heart disease. One half cup cooked broccoli contains the following nutrients as well as many other trace nutrients and phytochemicals.

Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup cooked fresh broccoli)

Calories 23Dietary
fiber 2.4 grams
Protein 2.3 grams
Carbohydrates 4.3 mg
Beta carotene Vitamin C 49 mg
Folic Acid 53.3 nanograms
Calcium 89 mg Iron 0.9 mg

Preparation & Serving

Wash broccoli under cool running water. Never allow it to sit in water as it will lose water soluble nutrients. Fresh broccoli is delicious raw or cooked. Trim and peel the stalk, it is high in fiber. Cut the florets into uniform pieces for even cooking. Overcooked broccoli develops a strong sulfur odor. Steam broccoli for 3-4 minutes or simmer in about one inch of boiling water for the same amount of time or less. Cooked broccoli should be bright green and tender-crisp. Overcooked broccoli turns dark green and suffers nutrient loss, especially vitamin C.

Home Preservation

Freezing is the best way to preserve broccoli. Broccoli, as well as all other broccoli vegetables, must be blanched (scalded) in boiling water before freezing. Unblanched vegetables contain an active enzyme which causes toughening and severe flavor and nutrient loss during freezing. Blanching retards the enzyme activity.

Freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable. Freezing actually can magnify undesirable characteristics. For instance woodiness in stalks become more noticeable upon thawing. Select broccoli that has grown under favorable conditions and prepare for freezing as soon after picking as possible. Broccoli at its peak quality for eating will produce best results in the freezer.

1. In a blanching pot or large pot with a tight fitting lid, bring 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil.
2. Meanwhile, wash broccoli, trim stalks and cut through florets so that pieces of heads are not more than 1 inch across. Peel stalks and cut into rounds or quarter lengthwise.
3. Blanch no more than one pound at a time. Add broccoli to boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid.
4. Start timing immediately and blanch for four minutes.

5. Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5-quart container or the sink.

6. Remove broccoli from water with a slotted spoon or blanching basket.

7. Emerge in the ice water bath for five minutes or until cooled. If you do not have ice, use several changes of cold water or running cold water. Remove and drain.

8. Pack cold broccoli in zip-closure freezer bags or freezer containers. Squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing bags.
9. Label and date each container or bag. Immediately place in the freezer, allowing an inch of space around each container until it is frozen. Freeze for up to one year at 0 degrees F. or below.
10. Blanching water can be reused. Add more water if necessary. Remember to always bring water back to a rolling boil before blanching more broccoli.

Recipes

Herbs and spices that enhance the flavor of broccoli include basil, dill, garlic, lemon balm, marjoram, oregano, tarragon and thyme.

Steamed Broccoli with Lemon-Dill Dressing
- 1 bunch broccoli (about 2 pounds)
- 3 carrots, peeled and cut into 2 -inch strips

Lemon-Dill Dressing
- 6 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons lemon juice
- zest of one lemon, grated or minced
- 1/4 teaspoon black pepper (optional)
- 1 teaspoon dried dill weed or 3 teaspoons fresh dill
- salt to taste

Wash, trim stems from broccoli and peel, cut into strips the same size as carrots. Cut florets into small uniform pieces and set aside. Prepare carrots and set aside. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. (Or prepare the steamer) Add carrots and broccoli stems. Cook for one minute. Add broccoli florets and boil two minutes longer. Do not over cook. Drain, and rinse under cold running water, drain again. Place in a large bowl and gently toss with dressing. Serve immediately.

Makes six servings.

Broccoli Stir-fry

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seed oil
1/2 cup walnuts, broken or chopped coarsely
1/4 cup chopped green onions with tops (optional)
4 cups broccoli florets
1/4 cup red pepper strips
2 tablespoons lite soy sauce

In a large heavy, skillet heat oil until hot. Add walnuts and onions and stir-fry for one minute tossing constantly. Add broccoli and continue to toss for three to four minutes. Add red pepper strips and soy sauce and continue to cook one minute longer. Serve immediately. Makes six servings.

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How to Grow Watermelon

Watermelon is a tender, warm-season vegetable. Watermelons can be grown in all parts of the country, but the warmer temperatures and longer growing season of southern areas especially favor this vegetable. Gardeners in northern areas should choose early varieties and use transplants. Mulching with black plastic film also promotes earliness by warming the soil beneath the plastic. Floating row covers moderate temperatures around the young plants, providing some frost protection in unseasonable cold spells.

Seedless watermelons are self-sterile hybrids that develop normal-looking fruits but no fully developed seeds. The seeds for growing them are produced by crossing a normal diploid watermelon with one that has been changed genetically into the tetraploid state. The seeds from this cross produce plants that, when pollinated by normal plants, produce seedless melons.

In seedless watermelons (genetic triploids), rudimentary seed structures form but remain small, soft, white, tasteless and undeveloped tiny seedcoats that are eaten virtually undetected along with the flesh of the melon. Seed production for these seedless types is an extremely labor intensive process that makes the seeds relatively expensive. Because germination of these types is often less vigorous than normal types, it is recommended that they be started in peat pots or other transplantable containers, where the germinating conditions can be closely controlled Once transplanted, cultivation is similar to that for regular watermelons.

For pollination necessary to set fruit, normal seed types must be interplanted with seedless melons. The pollinator should be distinct from the seedless cultivar in color, shape or type so that the seedless and seeded melons in the patch can be separated at harvest. Because seedless types do not put energy into seed production, the flesh is often sweeter than normal types and the vines are noticeably more vigorous as the season progresses.

Recommended Varieties

Early (70 to 75 days to harvest)

Golden Crown (red flesh, green skin; skin turns yellow when ripe)
Sugar Baby (red flesh, 6 to 10 pounds)
Yellow Baby (hybrid-yellow flesh, 6 to 10 pounds)
Yellow Doll (hybrid-yellow flesh, 6 to 10 pounds)

Main Season (80 to 85 days)

Charleston Gray (red, 20 to 25 pounds)
Crimson Sweet (red, 20 to 25 pounds)
Madera (hybrid-red, 14 to 22 pounds)
Parker (hybrid-red, 22 to 25 pounds)
Sangria (hybrid-red, 22 to 26 pounds)
Sunny’s Pride (hybrid-red, 20 to 22 pounds)
Sweet Favorite (hybrid-red, 20 pounds).

Seedless (all are triploid hybrids, 80 to 85 days)

Cotton Candy (red, 15 to 20 pounds)
Crimson Trio (red, 14 to 16 pounds)
Honey Heart (yellow flesh, 8 to 10 pounds)
Jack of Hearts (red, 14 to 18 pounds)
Nova (red, 15 to 17 pounds)
Queen of Hearts (red, 12 to 16 pounds)
Tiffany (red, 14 to 22 pounds).

When to Plant

Plant after the soil is warm and when all danger of frost is past. Watermelons grow best on a sandy loam soil, although yields on clay soils can be increased significantly by mulching raised planting rows with black plastic film.

Spacing & Depth

Watermelon vines require considerable space. Plant seed one inch deep in hills spaced 6 feet apart. Allow 7 to 10 feet between rows. After the seedlings are established, thin to the best three plants per hill. Plant single transplants 2 to 3 feet apart or double transplants 4 to 5 feet apart in the rows.

Start the seeds inside 3 weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Plant 2 or 3 seeds in peat pellets, peat pots or cell packs and thin to the best one or two plants. For expensive seedless types, plant one seed to a pot or cell and discard those that do not germinate. Do not start too early - large watermelon seedlings transplant poorly. Growing transplants inside requires a warm temperature, ideally between 80 and 85°F. Place black plastic film over the row before planting. Use a starter fertilizer when transplanting. If you grow seedless melons, you must plant a standard seeded variety alongside. The seedless melon varieties do not have the fertile pollen necessary to pollinate and set the fruit.

Care

Watermelons should be kept free from weeds by shallow hoeing and cultivation. The plants have moderately deep roots and watering is seldom necessary unless the weather turns dry for a prolonged period. In cooler areas, experienced gardeners may find floating row covers, drip irrigation and black plastic mulch advantageous in producing a good crop in a short season.
Harvesting

Many home gardeners experience difficulty in determining when watermelons are ripe. Use a combination of the following indicators: (1) light green, curly tendrils on the stem near the point of attachment of the melon usually turn brown and dry; (2) the surface color of the fruit turns dull; (3) the skin becomes resistant to penetration by the thumbnail and is rough to the touch; and (4) the bottom of the melon (where it lies on the soil) turns from light green to a yellowish color. These indicators for choosing a ripe watermelon are much more reliable than "thumping" the melon with a knuckle. Many watermelons do not emit the proverbial "dull thud"when ripe. For these, the dull thud may indicate an over-ripe, mushy melon.

Common Problems

Cucumber beetles attack watermelon plants. Apply a suggested insecticide for control. If row covers are used in the early season for temperature moderation, early-season insect pests may also be excluded if the covers are applied so that the pests cannot penetrate to the crop below. These covers may be left in place until the plants start to bloom, at which time pollinating insects must be allowed to reach the flowers.

For more information on cucumber beetles, see our feature in the Bug Review.

Questions & Answers

Q. My watermelons are not very sweet or flavorful. Is the low sugar content caused by the watermelons crossing with other vine crops in the garden?

A. No. Although watermelon varieties cross with one another, cross-pollination is not apparent unless seeds are saved and planted the following year. Watermelons do not cross with muskmelons, squash, pumpkins or cucumbers. The poor quality of your melons may result from wilting vines, high rainfall, cool weather or a short growing season in extreme northern areas.

Q. What can I do to prevent my watermelons from developing poorly and rotting on the ends?

A. This condition is probably caused by an extended period of extremely dry weather when the melons were maturing. It may be aggravated by continued deep hoeing or close cultivation. Mulching the plants with black plastic film helps to reduce this problem.

Q. What causes deep holes in the tops of my watermelons?

A. The holes were probably made by pheasants or other wildlife searching for water during dry weather.

Selection & Storage

Watermelon is truly one of summertime’s sweetest treats. It is fun to eat, and good for you. Watermelon seeds were brought to this country by African slaves. Today there are more than 100 different varieties of watermelons. The flesh may be red, pink, orange or yellow. There are seedless varieties and super-sweet round ones that fit nicely into the refrigerator.

Producing a good watermelon is a bit tricky in the short northern season. The sweetest watermelons grow during long hot summers. Harvesting is particularly critical because watermelons do not continue to ripen after they have been removed from the vine. They should be picked at full maturity. No amount of thumping, taping, sniffing, or shaking can actually give a clue to ripeness.

Look for melons that are very heavy and have a hard rind. Ninety percent of watermelon is water. The rind color should be right for the variety with a waxy bloom. Probably the most important indicator of ripeness is the underside which sets on the ground. Turn the melon over. It should be yellow or creamy colored on the underside. If it is white or pale green the melon is not ready to harvest.

The flesh should be deep colored with mature seeds. Most watermelons have dark brown or black seeds. The seedless variety produces a few white seeds. Once picked, uncut watermelon can be stored for about 2 weeks at room temperature especially if the temperature is about 45 to 50°. Uncut watermelons have a shorter refrigerator life, so store at room temperature until ready to chill and eat. Tightly cover cut pieces in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days.

Nutritional Value & Health Benefits

Watermelons are low in calories and very nutritious. Watermelon is high in lycopene, second only to tomatoes. Recent research suggests that lycopene, a powerful antioxidant, is effective in preventing some forms of cancer and cardiovascular disease. According to research conducted at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, men who consumed a lycopene-rich diet were half as likely to suffer a heart attack as those who had little or no lycopene in their diets.

Watermelon is also high in Vitamin C and Vitamin A, in the form of disease fighting beta-carotene. Research also suggests that the red pigmented foods provide this protection. Lycopene and beta-carotene work in conjunction with other plant chemicals not found in vitamin/mineral supplements. Potassium is also available, which is believed to help control blood pressure and possibly prevent strokes.

Nutrition Facts (1 wedge, or 1/16 of a melon, about 1-2/3 cup)

Calories 91.52
Protein 1.77 grams
Carbohydrates 20.54 grams
Dietary Fiber 1.43 grams
Potassium 331.76 mg
Vitamin C 27.46 mg
Vitamin A 1046.76 IU

Preparation & Serving

The National Watermelon Promotion Board suggests washing whole watermelons with clean water before slicing to remove potential bacteria. The flavor of watermelon is best enjoyed raw. Heating diminishes the flavor and softens the texture. Watermelon tastes best icy cold in fruit smoothies, slushes or simply eaten from the rind.

To make melon balls, cut the watermelon in half lengthwise then into quarters. Watermelon balls can be scooped right out of rind. Create perfect balls, using a melon baller, and a twist of the wrist. The watermelon shell can be used to hold the melon balls as well as other fruit. Watermelon punch is also served from the hallow rind. By sitting the round end inside a ring or bowl, the shell will remain stable during serving.

To remove seeds, cut each quarter in half again. With the flesh of each wedge on top and the rind sitting on the counter, look for the row of seeds along the flesh of each wedge. Using a sharp knife, cut along the seed line and remove the flesh just above it. Scrape the seeds from the remaining piece.

Home Preservation

Seeded watermelon chunks can be frozen to use in watermelon slushes or fruit smoothies. Watermelon sorbet or granita stays fresh in the freezer for up to 3 months. The difference between a sorbet and a granita is in the texture. Sorbets are smooth, whereas granitas are coarse. You do not need an ice cream maker to make a granita. The best way to enjoy watermelon is while they are fresh and sweet. When they are gone, they are gone until next summer.

Recipes

Watermelon Granita

5 cups seeded watermelon pulp
1 cup sugar syrup*
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
Thin watermelon wedges, cut into strips for a garnish
1. Puree watermelon in a food processor.

2. Pour into a 9 x 13 inch baking dish. Stir in the syrup and lemon juice. Freeze for about 4 hours or until frozen solid.
3. To serve, scrape up granita with a large spoon and place in goblets, tulip shaped wine glasses or ice cream dishes. Garnish with a narrow wedge of watermelon. Makes 4 servings.

*To make sugar syrup; Combine 1/2 cup water and 1 cup sugar in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for one minute. Stirring constantly until all of the sugar has dissolved. Cool in the refrigerator.

Watermelon Smoothie

1 - 8 ounce lemon, fat-free yogurt
3 cups cubed, seeded watermelon
1 pint fresh strawberries, cleaned and hulled
1 tablespoon honey or strawberry jam
3 ice cubes

1. In a blender or food processor, combine yogurt, watermelon, strawberries, honey and ice cubes.
2. Process until smooth and frothy. Serve in tall glasses with a straw. Makes 4 servings.

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Langsat Fruit Facts

Langsat
Lansium domesticum Corr.


A somewhat less edible fruit of the family Meliaceae, the langsat, Lansium domesticum Corr., is also known as lansa, langseh, langsep, lanzon, lanzone, lansone, or kokosan, and by various other names in the dialects of the Old World tropics.


Fig. 53: The langsat, photographed by Dr. Walter T. Swingle, Plant Explorer for the United States Department of Agriculture.


Description

The tree is erect, short-trunked, slender or spreading; reaching 35 to 50 ft (10.5 to 15 m) in height, with red-brown or yellow-brown, furrowed bark. Its leaves are pinnate, 9 to 20 in (22.5-50 cm) long, with 5 to 7 alternate leaflets, obovate or elliptic-oblong, pointed at both ends, 2 3/4 to 8 in (7-20 cm) long, slightly leathery, dark-green and glossy on the upper surface, paler and dull beneath, and with prominent midrib. Small, white or pale-yellow, fleshy, mostly bisexual, flowers are home in simple or branched racemes which may be solitary or in hairy clusters on the trunk and oldest branches, at first standing erect and finally pendant, and 4 to 12 in (10-30 cm) in length.
The fruit, borne 2 to 30 in a cluster, is oval, ovoid-oblong or nearly round, 1 to 2 in (2.5-5 cm) in diameter, and has light grayish-yellow to pale brownish or pink, velvety skin, leathery, thin or thick, and containing milky latex. There are 5 or 6 segments of aromatic, white, translucent, juicy flesh (arils), acid to subacid in flavor. Seeds, which adhere more or less to the flesh, are usually present in 1 to 3 of the segments. They are green, relatively large–3/4 to 1 in (2-2.5 cm) long and 1/2 to 3/4 in (1.25-2 cm) wide, very bitter, and sometimes, if the flesh clings tightly to the seed, it may acquire some of its bitterness.

Origin and Distribution

The langsat originated in western Malaysia and is common both wild and cultivated throughout the Archipelago and on the island of Luzon in the Philippines where the fruits are very popular and the tree is being utilized in reforestation of hilly areas. It is much grown, too, in southern Thailand and Vietnam and flourishes in the Nilgiris and other humid areas of South India and the fruits are plentiful on local markets. The langsat was introduced into Hawaii before 1930 and is frequently grown at low elevations. An occasional tree may be found on other Pacific islands.

The species is little known in the American tropics except in Surinam. There it is commercially grown on a small scale. Seeds were sent from Java to the Lancetilla Experimental Garden at Tela, Honduras, in 1926 and plants arrived from the same source in 1927. The trees have grown well but are usually unfruitful, occasionally having a small number of fruits. There are bearing trees in Trinidad, where the langsat was established in 1938, and a few around Mayaguez, Puerto Rico, that have been bearing well for about 60 years. There were young specimens growing on St. Croix in 1930.

Southern Florida does not have climatic and soil conditions favorable to the langsat, but the rare-fruit fancier, William Whitman, has managed to raise two bearing trees in special soil and tented for the first several years. Winter cold has caused complete defoliation and near-girdling at the base of the trunks, but the trees made good recovery. Other specimens have survived on the Lower Keys in pits prepared with non-alkaline soil. There have been attempts to maintain langsats at the University of Florida's Agricultural Research and Education Center in Homestead, but the trees have succumbed either to the limestone terrain or low temperatures.


Plate XXIV: LANGSAT, Lansium domesticum Varieties


There are two distinct botanical varieties: 1) L. domesticum var. pubescens, the typical wild langsat which is a rather slender, open tree with hairy branchlets and nearly round, thick-skinned fruits having much milky latex; 2) var. domesticum, called the duku, doekoe, or dookoo, which is a more robust tree, broad-topped and densely foliaged with conspicuously-veined leaflets; the fruits, borne few to a cluster, are oblong-ovoid or ellipsoid, with thin, brownish skin, only faintly aromatic and containing little or no milky latex. The former is often referred to as the "wild" type but both varieties are cultivated and show considerable range of form, size and quality. There are desirable types in both groups. Some small fruits are completely seedless and fairly sweet.

'Conception' is a sweet cultivar from the Philippines; 'Uttaradit' is a popular selection in Thailand; 'Paete' is a leading cultivar in the Philippines.

Climate

The langsat is ultra-tropical. Even in its native territory it cannot be grown at an altitude over 2,100 to 2,500 ft (650-750 m). It needs a humid atmosphere, plenty of moisture and will not tolerate long dry seasons. Some shade is beneficial especially during the early years.


Soil

The tree does best on deep, rich, well-drained, sandy loam or other soils that are slightly acid to neutral and high in organic matter. It is inclined to do poorly on clay that dries and cracks during rainless periods, and is not at all adapted to alkaline soils. It will not endure even a few days of water-logging.

Propagation

Langsats are commonly grown from seeds which must be planted within 1 or 2 days after removal from the fruit. Viability is totally lost in 8 days unless the seeds are stored in polyethylene bags at 39.2º-42.8º F (4º-6º C) where they will remain viable for 14 days.

Seedlings will bear in 12 to 20 years. Air-layering is discouraging, as the root system is weak and the survival rate is poor after planting out. Shield-budding has a low rate of success. Cleft- and side-grafting and approach-grafting give good results. The budwood should be mature but not old, 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 in (6.5-9 cm) long, 1/4 to 3/4 in (6-20 mm) thick, and it is joined to rootstock of the same diameter about 2 1/2 to 4 in (6.5-10 cm) above the soil. Some preliminary experiments have been conducted in Puerto Rico with hormone-treated cuttings under intermittent mist. Whitman found that a potted cutting 3 to 4 in (7.5-10 cm) long, will root if covered with a clear plastic bag.


Culture

The trees are spaced 25 to 33 ft (8-10 m) apart in orchards. In the Philippines they are frequently planted around the edges of coconut plantations. Generally, the langsat is casually grown in dooryards and on roadsides and receives no cultural attention. Regular irrigation results in better fruit size and heavier crops. Whitman has demonstrated that thrice-yearly applications of a 6-6-6 fertilizer formula with added minor elements result in good growth, productivity and high quality fruits even in an adverse environment.


Season and Harvesting

Langsats in Malaya generally bear twice a year-in June and July and again in December and January or even until February. In India, the fruits ripen from April to September but in the Philippines the season is short and most of the fruits are off the market in less than one month.

Yield

Trees in the Nilgiris average 30 lbs (13.5 kg) of fruits annually. In the Philippines, a productive tree averages 1,000 fruits per year.

Keeping Quality

Langsats are perishable and spoil after 4 days at room temperature. They can be kept in cold storage for 2 weeks at 52º to 55º F (11.11º-12.78º C) and relative humidity of 85-90%. Sugar content increases over this period, while acidity rises only up to the 7th day and then gradually declines.

Fruits treated with fungicide and held at 5% 0 and zero CO2 and 58º F (14.44º C) with 85% to 90% humidity, have remained in good condition for more than 2 weeks. High C02 promotes browning and elevates acidity.

Waxing reduces weight loss, increases sweetness, but causes browning over at least half the surface within 5 days in storage.

Pests and Diseases

In Puerto Rico, young langsat trees have been defoliated by the sugarcane root borer, Diaprepes abbreviatus. Scale insects, especially Pseudaonidia articulatus and Pseudaulacaspis pentagona, and the red spider mite, Tetranychus bimaculatus, are sometimes found attacking the foliage, and sooty mold is apt to develop on the honeydew deposited by the scales. Rats gnaw on the branchlets and branches and the mature fruits.

Anthracnose caused by Colletotrichum gloeosporioides is evidenced by brown spots and other blemishes on the fruit and peduncle and leads to premature shedding of fruits.

Canker which makes the bark become rough and corky and flake off has appeared on langsats in Florida, Hawaii and Tahiti. It was believed to be caused by a fungus, Cephalosporium sp., and larvae of a member of the Tineidae have been observed feeding under the loosened bark. However, other fungi, Nectria sp. (perfect stage of Volutella sp.) and Phomopsis sp. are officially recorded as causes of stem gall canker on the langsat in Florida.

Food Uses

The peel of the langsat is easily removed and the flesh is commonly eaten out-of-hand or served as dessert, and may be cooked in various ways.

Varieties with much latex are best dipped into boiling water to eliminate the gumminess before peeling.

The peeled, seedless or seeded fruits are canned in sirup or sometimes candied.


Food Value Per 100 g of Edible Portion*

Moisture 86.5 g
Protein 0.8 g
Carbohydrates 9.5 g
Fiber 2.3 g
Calcium 20.0 mg
Phosphorus 30.0 mg
Carotene (Vitamin A) 13.0 I.U.
Thiamine 89 mcg
Riboflavin 124 mcg
Ascorbic Acid 1.0 mg
Phytin 1.1 mg (dry weight)

*According to analyses made in India.

The edible flesh may constitute 60% of the fruit.


Toxicity

An arrow poison has been made from the fruit peel and the bark of the tree. Both possess a toxic property, lansium acid, which, on injection, arrests heartbeat in frogs. The peel is reportedly high in tannin. The seed contains a minute amount of an unnamed alkaloid, 1% of an alcohol-soluble resin, and 2 bitter, toxic principles.


Other Uses

Peel: The dried peel is burned in Java, the aromatic smoke serving as a mosquito repellent and as incense in the rooms of sick people.

Wood: The wood is light-brown, medium-hard, fine-grained, tough, elastic and durable and weighs 52.3 lbs/ cu ft. It is utilized in Java for house posts, rafters, tool handles and small utensils. Wood-tar, derived by distillation, is employed to blacken the teeth.

Medicinal Uses: The fresh peel contains 0.2% of a light-yellow volatile oil, a brown resin and reducing acids. From the dried peel, there is obtained a dark, semi-liquid oleoresin composed of 0.17 % volatile oil and 22% resin. The resin is non-toxic and administered to halt diarrhea and intestinal spasms; contracts rabbit intestine in vitro.

The pulverized seed is employed as a febrifuge and vermifuge. The bark is poulticed on scorpion stings. An astringent bark decoction is taken as a treatment for dysentery and malaria. Leaves may be combined with the bark in preparing the decoction. The leaf juice is used as eye-drops to dispel inflammation.

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Thai Fruits


Thai Fruits

Like the charming people, exotic fruit greets you on every almost corner in Thailand. The country's fertile plains and hot tropical climate, as well as its more temperate northern regions, means that pretty much anything grows here. As a result, few places on earth can claim to have such a plentiful supply of gorgeous tasting fruit.


Take advantage of this abundance by trying as many as possible. Yes, many may at first sight seem strange - the spiky stinker Durian being the best example - but rest assured, once you've had a try you'll soon be chomping non-stop. Not only is fruit cheap, healthy and nutritious, it's also a great way to rehydrate - a superb snack. If feeling really adventurous, why not also take a leap of faith and try your portion the way the locals have it, with a small bag of salt, sugar and chili.



Gluay (Banana) You thought you knew bananas? Try again. There's 20 different types that grow in Thailand - ranging from small stubby ones to large fleshy types - each of which have different names. In Thailand you'll find them eaten any which way: pure, dried, boiled, fried, served in sweet coconut milk or, simply, enjoyed fresh.



Noi-Na (Custard Apple)Light green and about the size of a tennis ball, the flesh of this knobby textured fruit is, much like custard, best eaten with a spoon. The sweet tasting meat contains tiny black seeds.


Gao Mung Gorn (Dragonfruit)The fruit of a cactus plant, the strange, unearthly looking dragonfruit has a lovely soft flesh that looks somewhat like that of a kiwi fruit and is typically eaten with a spoon.




Tu-Rian (Durian)Surely the most controversial fruit on earth, durian is to its fans a rich, unique tasting fruit, and to its critics, a putrid-smelling, lame duck of a fruit. Its extremely strong aroma - which some say resembles rotting fruit down a blocked drain - let alone its aggressive look, is enough to put many off tasting it altogether. Others, swear by it. Its the most expensive of all Thai fruits and actually banned, yes banned, from some public places, hotels and on planes.



Farang (Guava)
Originally from Central America and the West Indies, Guava is now grown in many tropical countries and favoured especially for its fragrant, exotic taste. Available all year round, it makes a popular snack that can be eaten green and crunchy alongside salt, sugar and chilli, or when ripe. Tasty and highly refreshing, guava can also be made into delicious drinks, luscious ice creams or rich jams and jellies. It's Thai name, Farang, is also the term that foreigners are known by.

Khanoon (Jackfruit) Available between January and May, the jackfruit is roughly the size of a large melon and packs a distinctive aroma and succulent taste. Divided into multiple sections, each of which contains a waxy textured meat surrounded by seeds, it is usually eaten raw, although some Thais like to fry it in batter.



Lang-sard (Langsat)Native to Thailand, the langsat is a small round seasonal fruit available between July and October. Use your fingers to prise open the thin, off white skin and you'll find a translucent, juicy flesh with a slightly tart flavour. An excellent thirst quencher, its flesh falls away into five segments and is best eaten raw.



Lam-Yai (Longan)A lesser known sibling of the lychee and rambutan, the longan has a sweet, delicate flavour and grows in Northern Thailand in the Chang Mai area, especially between June and August. The skin is pierced by the finger and the delicious, juicy flesh revealed by squeezing it out of its shell using the thumb and forefinger.



Linjee (Lychee)Covered by a red, roughly-textured rind that is inedible but easily removed, the inside of a lychee consists of a layer of sweet, translucent white flesh and has a texture somewhat similar to that of a grape. The centre contains a single glossy brown nut-like seed, that should not be eaten. This gorgeous fruit matures from July to October, about 100 days after flowering.


Ma-Muang (Mango)One of the most well-known fruits in Thailand, there are many varieties of the delicious, refreshing mango and a few different ways of eating it. When ripe, it can be halved and eaten with a spoon, while many choose to enjoy it with sticky rice and coconut milk (Khao Niew Ma-muang). Others like to eat it half-ripe and dip the crunchy slices in sugar. Also makes a wonderful juice.



Mang-Kut (Mangosteen)Little known outside Thailand, the Mangosteen is a bizarre looking fruit that contains in its round, deep purple shell a delicate, flavorful white flesh that is eaten in sections. The number of sections found inside match the number of petals found on the bottom of the shell. A delicious, distinctive flavour also makes it wonderful for juices.




Ma-La-Kaw (Papaya)A delicious year-round fruit that is at its best between March and June, the papaya is oval in shape and cut lengthways to remove the small black seeds in the middle. When ripe the soft dark orange coloured meat is full of flavour. Thais like to shred unripe papaya and mix it with lemon juice, chillies, peanuts and dried shrimp (Som Tam) - one of Thailand's favourite salads.


Supparod (Pineapple)The Kingdom is one of the largest producers of this flavourful, juicy fruit. Growing year round it is best planted in sandy seacoast soil, and grows on a low lying plant. It's an incredibly versatile fruit that finds its way into desserts, drinks and savoury dishes.



Som-O (Pomelo) Similar in size and taste to grapefruit, the meat of the pomelo is succulent and has a delicious sour-sweet flavour. Available all year round there are many varieties varying from pale yellow to orange or red.



Ngor (Rambutan)Its name is derived from the malay word for rambut, meaning hair - a result of the fruits red and yellow spiky rind. Peeling this away reveals a firm, white, translucent flesh, something the Thais are especially adept at delicately carving away from its large seed.



Chom-Poo (Rose Apple)With a shape much like a pear, the rose apple has a shiny skin that is either pink or green in colour. Extremely refreshing and with a crisp, crunchy taste it is often eaten in Thailand with salt and sugar.




La-Mut (Sapodilla)Rather deceptively, the dull and unattractive skin of this fig-like fruit masks the soft, succulent honey flavoured flesh to be found within. A knife is used to carve away the skin, and in Thailand you'll often find it carved into decorative shapes. A definite favourite.



StrawberryAn immigrant to Thailand, the strawberry nonetheless grows well in Thailand's northern rolling hills. In the cool months between December and March, you'll find this luscious red fruit making an appearance at markets. They grow here to a medium size and are juicy and very rich in flavour.



Taeng-Mo (Watermelon)Thailand's rich soil imparts watermelons here with a delicious flavour. Found in a rich ruby-red and more unusually a golden yellow colour, they are often used as the centrepiece for fruit carving due to the intricate designs that can easily be made using the fruit's thick, green rind. You'll find that its thrown liberally into blenders to make delicious, refreshing drinks.

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Thailand Geography

Simply put, Thailand is a real paradise for the fruit lovers.

An incredible array and great quality of both the quaint species and long-familiar tropical fruits alike, are handy and meaningly priced all the way around Thailand. A diverse selection of fruits is easily found at numerous fruit shops, supermarkets and market places. Also, lots of street vendors and hucksters sell seasonal fruits on sidewalks, in tourist's spots or right on the beaches. Thai vendors usually retail what is called 'ready to eat' fruit, by hand or with a wooden stick in a plastic bag. Sellers may even invite you to sample some untamed exotic fruit. Undoubtedly, all kinds of Thai fruits, whether these familiar names like melon, apple, banana, mango, grapefruit (some call that citrus pomelo or pummelo), or the newly discovered exotic treats, will pleasantly surprise you. Just keep in mind that numerous varieties of the same fruit might taste completely different. So keep sampling the treat whenever and whatever is ready to hand. Aside, it is worthy to point out that so much delightful Thai lime or lemon juices, which are widely available in bars, restaurants and hotels along with the orange, mandarin, pineapple, banana, mango, papaya, watermelon, sugarcane, carrot and many other freshly extracted fruits, vegetables and herbs. Needless to mention, the cheapest places to buy fruits and veggies are the fresh fruit markets. Still, the golden rule for choosing fruits (and sexy bargirls alike) is the more expensive, the better!
For instance, a so called 'Floating Market' tour in Bangkok takes you by boat to the Damnern Saduak seasonal fruit and flower market flourishing at all times. Refer to the Guided Tours. Besides, take a look at the authentic Thai pictures, MPEG movie clips and illustrations at the following titles Thai Culture and Traditions, Bangkok, Pattaya, and by all odds, for your fruitful vacation in Thailand, take advantage of this special travel promotion and enjoy the luxury and exotic Vacation Package to Bangkok and Pattaya.
Thailand Geography

The Kingdom of Thailand is situated in the heart of Southeast Asia at the Gulf of Thailand (Siam) covering an area of 513,115 sq.km., roughly the size of France. The population of Thailand is estimated at around 65 million, vast majority of whom are of Thai ethnicity. An ethnic group, as presumed by historians, had originated in the northern areas of Asia and then steadily migrated further south. Being detached from external civilizations for the most part of its two and half Millennia long history, not so long ago the Kingdom of Thailand had widely opened its gates, turning into the major Southeast Asia tourist destination.


Synopsis

Renowned by its unequaled ethnical heritage and traditions, this truly exotic Oriental kingdom greatly enjoys its unique look with spicy smells, sweet sounds and above all the smiling hospitality of its charming people. Imparted with the fascinating deeply rooted culture, delicious Thai cooking and delightful tropical fruits, superb beaches and golf courses, the outstanding dining flavors and shopping bargains, set apart so much incomparable nightlife festivities. Amidst many other utmost temptations are the far-famed Muay Thai Boxing and renowned Thai massages, much relaxing the body and mind, refer to the page entitled Pattaya.

By and large, Thailand borders the troubled countries of the region, refer to the regional map: Laos on the East along the Mekong river, Cambodia on the Southeast, Malaysia alongside the Malay peninsula to the South, and Myanmar (Burma) to the Northwest.Far and away infamous for its opium growing activities, the Golden Triangle converges Thailand's northernmost jungle area at the border point with Laos and Burma. Golden Triangle lies on the spit of land formed by joins of the Ruak River and the mighty Mekong. Myanmar lies across the Ruak River and Laos is across the Mekong. Opium poppies are started growing in September-October and are harvested during February-March. After flowering the bulbs are scribed with a razor at ~20 cuts per bulb. A milky sap seeps out and blackens as it oxidizes. Rub off some with a spoon and it's ready for smoke. It only takes about a gram of that substance for a smoke. Five kilograms of sap will extract some five grams of heroin.

Climate in ThailandBeing located in the tropical climatic zone (merely two fingers above the Equator), there are only two major seasons that is possible to distinguish in Thailand:
The Rainy Season (a so called Monsoon Season) is from June until September, and The Dry Season is the rest of the year.

These two seasons, the wet and the dry, rule the year. And albeit the fact that Al Nino effect had altered a bit the clime patterns, making rains less predictable, the temperature in central and southern regions is above 30ºC (~86ºF) most of the time, doesn't matter a season. So, there is no need for warm clothing.

On the whole, weather is always perfect in Thailand with April and May being the hottest months. Visitors used to colder climates may be forgiven for assuming that from May to November it is hot and wet. The truth is the warm glow covering the perfect landscape is occasionally broken by gentle raindrops falling to earth like petals to enrich the fertile soil. This is called the ‘low tourist season’ because there are fewer tourists and business is dormant. There are several advantages for traveling during that time, as the rains are just cooling and refreshing.

And it gets especially pleasant on the beaches, where the water temperature is around 25ºC. Moreover, one can enjoy a broad variety of seasonable fruits, vegetables and other sea and land delicacies at great saving. From December to April, the ‘high tourist season’, is pleasantly hot and dry, although December can be refreshingly cool. Around Christmas and New Year, the top tourist season', when many westerners coming to Thailand to find a highly welcoming escape from the cold in their home countries. If you plan to be here during that period, ensure that you book a room well in advance.


Thai Language

Thai language doesn't resemble any other languages except maybe the Lao (Laotian). It is a rather complex tonal language with its unique alphabet and numbering. The pronunciation of Thai causes most difficulties, as the same word would have a whole different meaning when pronounced in varying tones. There are 5 tones in Thai: rising, falling, high, low and level. Although the Lao, Chinese and Malay are spoken by significant number of Thais, the English among the general population is quite poor, with the exception of those who work with tourist.

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